With wine, like with many things, sometimes the taste is also in the image

A recent Wine Enthusiast article got me thinking. Writer Sean P. Sullivan was arguing that the capsules which cover the tops of wine bottles are unnecessary. They do nothing to protect the quality of the wine, merely add to the expense, and have a negative environmental impact as they end up in landfills. He explained that if we are concerned about climate change, we shouldn’t be “putting an unnecessary piece of waste atop every bottle.” 

The use of capsules can add up to $4 to the cost of a case of wine. The owner of the Seattle Wine Lab, Tracey LaPierre, says that when she advises her clients to stop using them, it’s the money-saving impact that is more likely to sway them than the environmental argument. 

As Sullivan himself pointed out, the capsules today serve two purposes, decoration and branding. While protecting the environment is more and more crucial, the importance of image in marketing wine and other beverages cannot be dismissed. 

While some producers may stop using capsules, others will continue to use them, basing their decisions on how much they decide capsules and labels helps sales. 

A case in point. A few years ago, I spoke with Marcel Rheault of Distillerie Rheault in Hearst, manufacturer of Loon Vodka. 

Marcel explained that preparing a product for listing in the LCBO is about a $40,000 process, and, once on the shelves as a new option, you only have 5 seconds to catch the eye of a potential buyer and have them select your product over another. On the neck of the Loon vodka bottle you can find a set of moose tracks, emphasizing the northern connection.  

Image. Grabbing attention. Making a sale. 

If a capsule can contribute, we can appreciate how crucial labels can be to sales. One of the most effective approaches to labelling is that of Ontario’s Megalomaniac winery. 

When John Howard, told his friends that he was thinking of naming his new winery after himself, he was told he was “a #@!x!” megalomaniac”, and the name stuck. It was a genius move to then hire Brandever, a Vancouver design company, to develop the names and labels for Megalomaniac wines. 

As “tongue-in-cheek” as the winery name itself, the labels build on this theme, usually featuring a faceless ‘executive’ wearing a bowler hat, reminiscent of the work of Rene Magritte, the Belgian surrealist artist. For each wine, though, the label is changed to reflect a quality associated with the grape or the name chosen for the wine. 

Megalomaniac’s entry level “Local Squeeze” wines offer a tip of the hat to rural Canada with the image featuring a black fedora with a red band hovering over a red and black bush jacket…Wait. It isn’t a Bush Jacket, it’s a sports coat – dressing up for a date with the “local squeeze”? In turn, the “Homegrown Red “ figure is wearing a patterned suitcoat and derby that is actually a road map of the region with the winery’s site in red over the breast pocket. (You can see Lake Ontario in blue on the crown of the hat.)  

Images courtesy of Megalomaniac Winery 

The Narcissist Riesling label has a reflective image or ‘mirror’ on the body of the figure, with the name, ‘Narcissist Riesling’ actually spelled backward, perfect for the idea of a self-centred individual totally taken with their own appearance. 

The ‘Pompous’ Red, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc switches things up to feature a top hat and tails, with only a handlebar moustache poised between the two. 

Each example is eye-catching and more clever than the next. 

Is “image” important? Definitely. 

With some more expensive wines, the packaging intentionally signifies outstanding quality and exclusivity. 

One of the best demonstrations of this is Chateau Mouton Rothschild in Bordeaux, one of the few Premier Cru of the region. Each year, Mouton Rothschild commissions a world-renowned artist to design an image for their label. In 1973, it was Pablo Picasso, in ’75 Andy Warhol, in 2014, David Hockney, and so on. 

Perhaps the epitome of exclusivity and beautiful design has been reached with the Robert Mondavi Bernardaud MCMLXVI collection, just made available this past December.  

To mark a celebration of its founding in 1966, Mondavi has commissioned three different 1.5 litre vessels from France’s Bernardaud porcelain house.  Apparently, it takes about 50 craftsmen working for about two weeks to create each bottle, two of which are burgundy in colour, one accented in gold, the other in silver, and one bottle is completely matte black.  

In each case, the wine has been made by a different Mondavi master winemaker, with the fruit coming from the famous To-Kalon vineyard behind the winery. Napa Cabernet Sauvignon is arguably the most expensive Cab in the world, with the To-Kalon vineyard providing perhaps the most expensive fruit in Napa.  

Two of the wines are priced at $3500 a bottle, with the black edition valued at $7000. But the “exclusivity” doesn’t stop there. One cannot simply purchase a bottle; instead, one buys a non-fungible token – that is a unique token that cannot be copied, which one will later redeem for the wine.  

At the moment one purchases a bottle, a unique piece of digital artwork is generated by artist Clay Heaton, which will act as a kind of key to access the actual bottle of wine.  

Given that the wines celebrate the founding of the winery, only 1,966 bottles have been produced. 

Exclusive? Absolutely.  

The capsules adorning the necks of wine bottles may one day, for reasons of cost and environmental stewardship, no longer be used; however, whether it be for reasons of status or sales, image and appearance will be factors in the marketing of wine for a long, long time to come.  

Vintages 

The April 2 Vintages release should be particularly tempting for Sauvignon Blanc fans. We are receiving four of the five examples from New Zealand, as well as all five of the wines from France’s Loire region, including two Sancerres. 

The Thierry Delaunay Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2020, $16.95, is well-priced and highly recommended. Joe D’Angelo of the internationalwinereport.com says it is “bright and vivid offering inviting aromas of gooseberries, exotic fruits, lychee and mineral nuances. The palate is fresh and nicely textured with vibrant acidity” – 91. 

The “Set The Bar Lifestyle in Style” site had this to say about New Zealand’s Sunday Sail Sauvignon Blanc 2022, $19.95: “This Sauvignon Blanc will not win the regatta but it sure will not embarrass itself by crashing into the reef. It can hoist its sails and cross the finish line with the better sloops in the Ontario marketplace.” It also refers to flavours of passionfruit and guava, tangerine and honey, all “finely tuned”. 

On April 16, from New Zealand there is the Whitehaven Greg Single Vineyard Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2020. $23.95, which Bob Campbell MW claims is an “intense punchy sauvignon blanc with passionfruit, lime, grapefruit, capsicum and gooseberry flavours.” – 95. 

Even South Africa gets in the act with the Professor Black Sauvignon Blanc 2021, $16.95, which Tim Atkin MW describes as “floral and herbal…some leesy weight and flavours of passion fruit and grapefruit.”  - 91. 

Typically in Bordeaux, Sauvignon Blanc is blended with Semillon, which adds some body and a more lush mouthfeel. The Clarence Dillon Clarendelle Blanc 2020, $24.95, from the owners of the First Growth Chateau Haut Brion is herbal yet floral, and presents green apple and Bartlett pear, along with lime/grapefruit notes. 

I have long despaired over the extremely few Ontario wines we receive here in the Sault from each Vintages release. For example, of the dozen VQA wines on the release, we are getting one. In contrast, of the 14 from California, they are shipping us 8. Supposedly, whoever in Toronto makes the decision does it on the basis of previous sales; but if we never get them, how can they expect us to buy them? 

At least, we can always look to the Wine Rack at Rome’s and at Metro for some relief. From the March 19 release, we can find the Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve 2020 Sauvignon Blanc, $20.95. This wine compares very favourably with French examples. The mouth-feel is impressive on entry, with an appealing roundness, introducing tight-roped balanced flavours of grapefruit and tropical fruit such as pineapple leading to a mineral note and an elegant acidic grip on the finish.  

Just as we didn’t receive the previous wine, we didn’t see the Jackson Triggs Grand Reserve Pinot Noir 2019, $25.95, either. Ontario produces some excellent pinots in the Burgundian style. This one comes in clean and smooth, introducing flavours of red cherry and plum enhanced by an impression of vanilla spice and forest floor; that is, an earthiness which is often associated positively with this grape. The wine is mid-weight, nuanced, and ultimately appealing and expansive on the finish. 

As much as the Sauvignon Blanc has a European character, the Jackson Triggs Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2019, $20.95, is more reminiscent of California, with ample buttery ripe apple and nectarine notes with a vanilla spice accent following up. This is a full-flavoured wine that would be perfect with roast chicken or pork loin. 

Available from the Inniskillin Winery is the exceptional 2019 Single Vineyard Series Montague Chardonnay, $25.95. In 1975, Inniskillin was the very first premium Ontario winery to receive a licence, and the Montague Vineyard was purchased in 1982. Creamy and sleek, stylish and elegant, this is a magnificent chardonnay. It has lots of body and is impeccably balanced, with fruit and acidity dancing a perfect “pas de deux”. To order, visit the Inniskillin.com website. Shipping is free on orders of 6 bottles or more. 

Currently on our shelves from the March 19 Vintages release is the Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Gran Selezione Chianti, $49.95. ‘Gran Selezione’ represents the highest level of Chianti Classico, a classification that was only introduced a few years ago. On the label you can find the image of the Gallo Nero, the black rooster that is the symbol of the ‘Classico ‘district in Tuscany.  

Legend has it that, in order to establish once and for all the boundary between the two city states, Florence and Siena, it was agreed that, when the cock crowed on a designated morning, a knight would set out from each of the cities. Where they met would become the boundary. Supposedly, the Sienese coddled their white rooster, keeping it happy and well-fed.  The Florentines, in their turn, almost starved their black Cockerel, and so hungry, it began crowing quite early, while the white rooster slumbered. With a considerable head-start, the Florentine knight was well down the road before he met his counterpart from Siena, and the rest is history, with the much larger share of territory, now mostly Chianti, ceded to Florence. 

This wine is deep, dense and structured, laden with dark fruit, pipe tobacco, and savory herbs. Balanced and intense, the impression is pervasive and persistent and very, very satisfying. This wine will keep for years, but is enjoyable now if decanted and given a little while to breathe. There are significant tannins, but they make their presence known on the aftertaste. Lamb Shank, Osso Buco, T-bone Steak. This exceptional red will complement them all.  

Other Whites 

Beronia Rueda Verdejo 2020, $14.95, from Spain, is described by James Suckling as having “a fruity nose of white grapefruit, sliced pear, lemon and gooseberry. It’s medium to full-bodied with crisp acidity, juicy and flavorful.” – 91. 

Dopff Au Moulin Cuvée Europe Riesling 2019, $16.95. With fruit sourced from some of the best vineyards in Alsace’s Riquewihr region, the wine gets its name from its being served at the very first meeting of the European Union in 1959. It is dry, plump and harmonious on entry, with plenty of peach and lemony citrus character, finishing crisply. 

D’Arenberg The Hermit Crab Viognier/Marsanne 2021, $17.95, from Australia, is very tropical in nature and richly flavoured with an immediate impression of pineapple, nectarine and melon, all followed by the suggestion of ginger on the dry finish. 

On the April 16 release, consider the Fattoria Le Pupille Poggio Argentato 2019, $19.95, a distinctive blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Petit Manseng, Traminer and Semillon from the coastal Maremma region of Tuscany. A key to this wine is the Petit Manseng. While the other grapes all undergo treatment in stainless steel, the Petit Manseng spends 25 days in fermentation in wood, followed by a further three months aging. This grape provides greater body and aromatics. The wine is fresh with medium body, and flavours suggestive of apple and pear accompanied by notes of honey and a light touch of vanilla. 

Other Reds 

A companion to the Hermit Crab above, D’Arenberg The High Trellis Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, $19.95, is described as “a perfectly honest cabernet …Blackcurrant, damson plum, hedgerow, a smear of olive and a douse of sage across the finish. Dutifully fresh, a little salty. Attractive drinking. Winecompanion.com.au – 91. 

Bastide Miraflores Syrah/Vieilles Vignes Grenache 2019, $19.95, from the Roussillon region of France is consistently delicious. “The full-bodied palate is ripe, supple and concentrated, adding hints of black cherries, chocolate and licorice on the long finish,” says Joe Czerwinski of robertparker.com – 91. 

We see very little wine from Lazio, the region of Italy in which Rome is situated. The old standby wines on the regular shelves from Fontana di Papa would typify the rather ordinary wine we are accustomed to seeing from the area. When you consider that these wines are $15.55 for 1.5 litres, you will understand that the Poggio Le Volpi Rosso 2018, $23.95, will be a whole new experience. The winery suggests that it is “deep bright ruby red. Intense on the nose with sensations of ripe red fruits, cherries in alcohol, red flower, everything enclosed in a very pleasant balsamic note. Very smooth in the mouth, pleasantly tannic, well balanced, elegant and very long in persistence.”  

It carries a 98 from Luca Maroni, the trophy and gold medal from the Berliner Wine competition, and a silver medal from Decanter. 

California’s Michael David Freakshow Red 2019, $28.95, was #52 in the Wine Enthusiast’s Top 100 Wines of 2021. “Superdark fruit flavors, moderate tannins and a velvety texture add up to an indulgent experience in this full-bodied wine. It delivers deliciousness with good balance, from its inky color to saturated black-cherry and blueberry flavors to a lingering finish.” – 92. 

April 16 Release 

Domaine Gayda Syrah 2020, $14.95, is a Vin de Pays d’Oc. According to the Univins Agency out of Montreal, it presents thus: “Very deep colour, opaque. Black pepper, licorice and spice. A full bodied wine, with layers of black fruits, pepper and moderate tannins. A fresh, clean, concentrated style more akin to the cooler examples from Northern Rhone.”   

Bollina Menas Calabria Rosso, $17.95. This wine from the very south of Italy is another on which critic Luca Maroni lavishes a 98. On the nose, this blend of Gaglioppo, Nero Mascalese and Sangiovese offers aromas of dark cherry, and dark berry. On the palate notes of cedar, mocha, and licorice can be detected. The wine is full-bodied and balanced with a velvety texture, and finishes with a light impression of vanilla at the end.