What do you get from 400-year-old vines?

Let’s start with 'old'. On June 27, wineenthusiast.com reported on what is understood to be the oldest living and producing grapevine in the world. Growing against the side of a house in northeast Slovenia, just 15 miles from the Austrian border, is a vine that has been scientifically proven to be over 400 hundred years old. 

Its survival is amazing both in terms of age and in terms of what it has withstood over the years. When the vine louse phylloxera was devastating the vineyards of Europe in the mid-1800s, this old vine with its deep, deep and wet roots was able to fend off the pests which basically drowned rather than devouring the roots. 

Fast-forwarding to World War II, the vine withstood bombardments which partially destroyed the farmhouse against which it grows. While wet roots might have saved the vine from pests, too much water almost killed it in 1980 when damming resulted in a 3-metre rise in the nearby Drava River. Vineyard experts were able to stabilize the vine so that in 1982 it produced new growth. 

Every year the vine provides between 70 and 110 pounds of an ancient red grape, Žametovka, resulting in about a hundred 250 ml. bottles of wine, which usually end up being presented to dignitaries and celebrities. 

Grafts of the vine have been gifted around the world, and so by 2020, there were 228 certified grafts growing in over 29 countries. 

In California, old vines are noted for the quality of fruit they produce, even though output drops as the vines age.

The late Sean Thackrey, of whom I wrote last month, sourced the fruit for his flagship Orion wine – which retails on average for $175 Canadian – from a 90-year-old vineyard, the fruit of which previous to Thackrey’s agreement with the owners had been sold to Gallo for inexpensive table wine. 

Any wine made that Thackrey didn’t feel met his standards for the Orion he reserved and eventually blended into his Pleiades, which the LCBO recently sold for $40 a bottle. Given the Gallo connection, Thackrey liked to refer to Pleiades as “the world’s most expensive Jug wine.” 

Keep an eye out for California reds made from “ancient vines”, and you will get a sense of how the vine age affects quality… but I don’t think that we should count on trying wine from the world’s oldest vine any time soon. 

In terms of what’s new, Napa County has recently moved to support small, family wineries in the Valley with the introduction of the Micro Winery Permit. Save The Family Farms is an initiative of 25 members who are reacting in part to the pressures small growers face. It is estimated that in the past five years over 200 small family farms in the county have been sold or closed. 

Up until now traditional winery licences in Napa were just for large-scale operations. Napa had defined a winery as one which produced a minimum of 10,000 U.S. gallons annually, or 2,000 cases. A permit for such a winery costs about $5 million dollars, on average!  

In contrast, the 25 STFF members each make about 1,000 gallons annually, according to the North Bay Journal of Feb. 14 this year. The micro permit will cost significantly less, starting with a deposit of $5,000 which will go towards the expenses incurred by the licensing body in confirming the validity of the application. Said application is quite detailed, running 17 pages.  

Among the requirements are limitations on the size of structures on the property – they can’t exceed 5,000 square feet – and the amount of “traffic to and from the winery, which are limited to 10 round trips a day, which applies both to staff and customers, total. 

75 per cent of the fruit must be “estate-grown”; that is, it has to be grown on the property. Permits are tied to the property, not to the owners, and so if the land changes hands, the permit goes with the property, with all of the regulations continuing to apply. 

All said, this shouldn’t result in a flood of new wines to our market, or anyone else’s, but it is certainly good news for the little guy. 

Back to ‘Old’ again. In terms of wine thievery and fakery, the beat goes on. 

The Wine Spectator has just reported the arrest in France of a Chateau owner and three accomplices who “have been indicted on charges of organized crime fraud and money laundering, deception regarding merchandise and falsification of foodstuffs.” 

Apparently, they have been counterfeiting labels etc. and bottling inexpensive wine from other regions, then selling it as the wine of respected Bordeaux Chateaux at suspiciously low prices in supermarkets, etc.  

The Gendarmes have a specially designated “wine squad”, which in itself should be an indication that wine frauds and other related crimes are nothing new. 

I recall buying a bottle of Barolo in a grocery store in Vienna, complete with appropriate seals guaranteeing the product within, for about 8 euros. Considering that less expensive bottles retail at the LCBO for around $35, it seemed too good to be true. 

When I pulled the cork and tasted my “bargain”, I realized that it wasn’t Barolo at all. For what I got, even at 8 euros, I had overpaid!  

As the Romans would say, “Caveat Emptor…  Buyer Beware.” 

July 16 Vintages Release 

With only one in-store release each month currently, we continue to receive many tempting offers – and they are all real. With this release, my only frustration is that, once again, Ontario is sorely under-represented in terms of what is being shipped to Sault Ste. Marie. We make some very good rosés, but of the nine featured in the catalogue, we are getting just one. Of the thirteen or so rosés from other countries, we will have all but two. Go figure. 

Still, here are some very good options. 

Rosé 

Biscardo Rosapasso 2021, $15.95, from Italy’s Veneto, presents flavours of strawberry and cherry in a wine that is complex and balanced, with mineral nuances as a result of the Pinot Noir grapes grown in volcanic soil. 

Fern Walk Rosé, $16.95, is the only one coming our way from Niagara. Vintages says it is refreshing, and “showing charming, evocative cherry, orange, strawberry and a tangy finish.” 

Domaine Maby La Forcadière Tavel Rosé 2021, $20.95 from the heartland of rosé in France has been described as one of the best on the market. Made from a blend of grapes grown on vines averaging 50 years of age, it has a deep, terracotta-like appearance with intense red berry fruit, spicy undertones, and a full texture. Some writers believe that it will continue to improve over the next two summers. It is a complete rosé. 

White 

Borsao Selección Blanco 2020, $13.95, from Spain, is made by the winery that Robert Parker Jr. once wrote was his favourite winery in the world. A blend of Macabeo and Chardonnay, it offers impressions of pear, melon and honey, finishing with green apple acidity and some delicate spice notes.  

Abcdarium Azal Branco 202, $15.95, is a Portuguese white which took the Vinho Verde trophy at the 2021 International Wine challenge with a score of 97. It has a refreshing, slightly fizzy note from characteristic natural carbonation, while on the palate it brings notes of almond, peach and even marmalade. 

Vesevo Beneventano Falanghina 2020, $17.95. From Campania in Italy near Naples, this white is dry, balanced, complex and satisfying.  Vintages explains that the Beneventano is a distinct variety, different from most of the Falanghina in the area. Along with impressions of pear and apple, it has a distinct minerality associated with volcanic soils, as well as an intriguing saline influence thanks to the Mediterranean Sea. 

Clos Henri Petit Clos Sauvignon Blanc 2019, $23.95, is just one of the tempting “SB”s from New Zealand on this release, with a 94 from the Wine Enthusiast which provides this description: “Notes of soft gunflint and seashell tuck beneath bright citrus and stone fruit, grass and dried green herbs. The palate strikes a lovely balance between texture and zingy acidity. Flinty, mineral nuances run beside juicy citrus right to the long finish.”  

Closson Chase The Brock Chardonnay 2019, $25. While the winery is in Prince Edward County, the fruit for this white is sourced in Niagara. The Brock was actually developed for restaurants and is aged both in stainless steel and neutral wood. The Sault’s own Sara d’Amato, who writes for winealign.com describes it as “mildly toasty with notes of citrus zest, salty pear and pine nuts. Featuring notable depth of flavour with an elegant purity due to a light-handed winemaking touch. Taught and nervy with memorable length. -   91.” 

Red   

There are scads of enticing red wines on this list, including Washington’s Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon, $22.95, which was #1 on last year’s Top 100 Best Buys for the Wine Enthusiast. The Los Clop Reserva Cab Sauv from Argentina at $21.95 has a 97 from decanter.com, and the Castorani Amorino Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from Italy, $24.95 has the full “three glasses” designation from Gambero Rosso Italian Wines. Here are a few more to consider.  

Roc des Templiers Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2020, $14.95, is a young, fruity, balanced French red exhibiting dried cherry and red berry fruit along with notes of spice, leather and cedar. Very good value.  

Barbanera Special Selection Da Uve Leggermente Appassite 2020, $16.95, from Tuscany, carries a 97 from Luca Maroni so you can count on it being lush on the palate and carrying loads of dark cherry fruit with vanilla and spice notes. With 13 grams of sugar per litre, we are right at the sweet edge for a dry wine. 

Dandelion Pride of the Fleurieu Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, $21.95, from South Australia, is a wine influenced by the sea. “Here we have a cornucopia of blackcurrant, menthol, pastille, iodine, violet, olive spread and sage. The tannins, firm, salty and crusted with herb... A moreish, powerful and delicious wine.” – winecompanion.com.au – 93.  

Catena Lunlunta Old Vines Appellation Malbec 2019, $24.95. “The pale and delicious 2019 Appellation Lunlunta Malbec is expressive and floral and really thriving in this cool vintage. This is fresh and ethereal, a lot fresher than the traditional Malbecs from the zone. It's juicy with velvety tannins and vibrant acidity.” Score - 93. (Luis Gutiérrez, robertparker.com)