Le Clos Jordanne…A wine reborn

Last Saturday, Nov. 23, saw the release of the 2017 Le Grand Clos Chardonnay and Pinot Noir of Le Clos Jordanne, single-vineyard wines from the 20 Mile Bench around Jordan in the Niagara region.

In 2003, Thomas Bachelder became the founding viticulturist and wine-maker for the property, at that time a partnership between Vincor (now Arterra) and France’s Burgundy producer, La Famille Boisset. Prior to that, he was the founding winemaker at Lemelson Vineyards in Oregon. Thomas remained at the helm of Le Clos Jordanne for eight years, with the focus on producing Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs which truly expressed the character of those grapes and the nature of the property on which they were grown.

In 2007, one of those wines, the Claystone Terrace 2005 Chardonnay, won the “Judgement of Montreal”, out-classing highly respected wines from Burgundy and California.

Bachelder left Le Clos Jordanne in 2010. Then, after the 2012 vintage, there were a few consecutive years marked by low yields, and the project was shut down. Now, after an eight-year period in which he has been making Bachelder wines in France, Niagara, and Oregon, as well as being the founding winemaker for Domaine Queylus in Niagara, Thomas has returned to revive and revitalize the initiative for Arterra.

‘Le Grand Clos’ is actually one of four vineyard sites which together comprise Le Clos Jordanne. For now, there are just the two Grand Clos wines, the Chardonnay and the Pinot Noir. In time, the hope is to craft more wines under the Clos Jordanne banner from the properties. Currently, much of that fruit is designated for other ventures, including Inniskillin, Jackson-Triggs, and Arterra Fine Wines.

Bachelder grew up in Quebec and worked as a wine journalist in the late 1980’s. Thomas and his wife, Mary Delaney, discovered Burgundy when they honeymooned in France and Italy in 1989. So smitten were they that they returned to visit in 1991, and then they returned in 1992-93 so that Thomas could do his degree in ‘Viticulture and Oenologie’. Gradually, like many Burgundians who wish to make wine but don’t have any vines – a single vineyard may be owned by several different families or producers, and the properties are very expensive – Thomas developed relationships with some producers and became a “micro-négoce”, a small scale winemaker using purchased grapes. He continues to make wine in Burgundy, as well as in Oregon and here in Niagara, all under the Bachelder label.

Thomas, a specialist in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, is passionate about Niagara. He says that the world is ready for our cool climate wines which ripen out in the 12.5 to 13 per cent alcohol range – exactly where the two Clos Jordanne wines fall. In addition, the younger generations, the millennials, for example, don’t carry the same pre-conceptions about wine that the Baby-Boomers and their successors had, who would tend to dismiss the locally produced wines in favour of first Europe, and then California. The current generations are interested in drinking a Northeastern ‘terroir’ he says. They are “drinking local and they are drinking well.”

Ontario has reached the critical mass of fine, knowledgeable producers and with vineyards of sufficient age to give us the quality of wine that can compete handsomely.

Bachelder brings a studious approach to Niagara, and he is keen on distinguishing the character of the various “terroirs” or regions within the general area, be it the Twenty Mile Bench where Le Clos Jordanne is located, or other appellations such as Vinemount Ridge and Lincoln Lakeshore. Believing all expressions are valid, he would like to apply in a consistent way the philosophy and skill of a single winemaker to the different sub-regions.

As I mentioned at the start, he believes the wine should be an expression of its ‘place’, and in his winemaking, his practices reflect that intention. He believes in a long “élevage”, or time in barrel for his wines.

As Thomas explains, he uses very little first-year oak in the process, and with carefully selected one-year-old French barrels, the wine doesn’t get more oaky, but rather undergoes more oxygenation, resulting in concentration and a silkiness. As some of the wine wafts off in the ‘angel’s share’ it gives the remainder richness and subtlety. In the end, the wine becomes more an expression of ’place’ rather than varietal.

The vines of Le Clos Jordanne are now 20-years-old, or a solid middle-aged’. Now there are less rough tannins and finer, longer flavours. The deep roots buffer out the extremes between years and allow for regular dependable quality year after year, despite variations in the weather. Younger vines can be higher in alcohol and more susceptible to those “meteorological” ups and downs.

Rick VanSickle of winesinniagara.com tells us “the ‘clos’, or enclosed vineyard, of Le Clos Jordanne, is surrounded and sheltered by the Carolinian forests and their glacial ravines. The limestone-laced, silt and clay glacial soils are known for bringing intensely-focused fruit, minerality and age-ability to the wines produced there.”

Coming back to Le Clos for Thomas is like coming back to an old friend who is wiser with years. He says he is more insistent on letting the terroir come through and using the right barrels the right way. He also has a greater appreciation for the distance from the Lake, as the grapes ripen later towards the end of September and beginning of October, as “the vine searches to ripen her babies,” he explains.

Here, then, are the wines.

Le Grand Clos 2017 Single-vineyard Chardonnay, $44.95 – All of a piece, this finely textured wine is a brilliant and utterly enjoyable effort. The fruit arrives at the tip of the tongue with an utterly silky, smooth entry, and the flavours ripple out expansively, wider and wider. Towards the finish, a lively citrus note and a precise minerality bring resolution to the experience.

Le Grand Clos 2017 Single-vineyard Pinot Noir, $44.95 – Tony Aspler, whom I consider the Dean of Ontario wine writing, suggests this is in the style of Burgundy’s Volnay, a wine known for its elegance, finesse, soft tannins and delicacy, and possessing a lovely perfumed fragrance and silky mouthfeel. Simply put, ‘he knows whereof he speaks.’

Medium ruby in colour, the wine brings tannins that feel like a luxurious suede. The fruit is present, but subdued, not drawing attention to itself, but instead contributing to the over-all rich and flavourful impact finishing with a lush herbal and mineral grace note.

Both these wines define elegance and exemplify refinement.

Customer Appreciation Day - Dec. 14

On Dec. 14, the Wine Rack store at the Rome’s Independent Grocer location is holding a special tasting all day featuring four of the finest wines made by Arterra. Considering that these wines retail for $30 and up, this is a great opportunity to experience them for yourselves, and perhaps pick some out for the holidays, either to enjoy with your celebrations or to present as exceptional gifts.

None of the wines have normally been carried at the store, but will be available on the 14th and as long as the supplies last. Two of the wines, the Epoca and the Grand Reserve Cab will be $5 off on the 14th only.

All four of the wines were crafted by Marco Piccoli, the head winemaker for Arterra, who comes to Niagara with a great deal of experience throughout Europe and South America. With the Arterra Pinot Noir and the Epoca Merlot, he has created some excitement by employing in part the appassimento technique.

Arterra 2017 Pinot Noir, $29.95 – there is a density and robustness here in a wine which still retains a smooth plummy texture accompanying cherry and cinnamon notes. 20% of the grapes were partially dried in the manner used in the production of Amarone, bringing some depth of flavour that sets the wine apart from many typical Pinot Noirs.

Arterra Epoca 2016, normally $34.95, but $29.95 on the 14th - With 20 per cent of the grapes also undergoing appassimento treatment, this is a Merlot unlike any other you will have tried. The dark cherry and raisin fruit is intense and delicious here with an initial level of mouth-coating sweetness attributable to the dried grapes gradually finessed by the soft mocha tannins that loom on the finish. Boldly sweet, and then savoury. This wine is sold out at the winery, and so this will be your one chance to try – and to buy- a singularly distinct treat.

Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, normally $39.95, will be $34.95 for one day only on the 14th. This is truly a classic red, with marvellously extracted fruit and a streak of bright acidity in parallel. The mouthfeel is big, and though the tannins crunch in at the end more noticeably than with the other reds, they do not over-power – they just tell us this will easily be able to rest in your cellar for a few years. (You could just as easily pull the cork now and grill a steak, however. Who cares that there’s a foot of snow out there!

Arterra Chardonnay 2017, $29.95, is plush and extremely easy to enjoy, as pear and ripe peach supported by nutmeg spice, and notes of toasty bread carry through on a gently flowing creaminess. A decent citrus presence balances everything off at the conclusion.

This really is an exceptional opportunity to try some impressive Ontario wines.

Black Friday at the Churchill Plaza Metro

Through this weekend, the in-store Wine Rack boutique will be offering two other Arterra family wines, the Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Merlot 2016, and the Inniskillin Montague Vineyard Chardonnay 2017.

The wines, normally $25.95, will be $4 to $5 off at $21 or $22.  

Holiday packaging is free, and so you could purchase a gift package of both wines for $42.95, a savings of $9.

The Chardonnay comes for the iconic Montague Vineyard, and promises notes of smoke and baking spice enrobing ripe peach and apple fruit. Expect the sensation of caramel and a creamy texture on this well-balanced wine.

The Merlot would be a good counterpart to try either with the Epoca, or with the Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. With the Epoca, you have two intriguing Merlots, with the Cab you have two of the prominent grapes from Bordeaux – the Merlot associated with St. Emiio and Pomerol, the Cabernet Sauvignon associated with the great wines of the Médoc. The 2016 Grand Reserve Merlot has good weight and a fleshy mouthfeel, with ripe plum and cherry fruit leading to a long spicy finish tinged with chocolate.

Be sure to drop in this weekend to see what these wines are all about.

December 7 Vintages Release

This will be the last official Vintages release prior to January 2020. They suggest that there may be other wines to follow, but we don’t know which, or when. For now, here are some suggestions from this next batch.

White Wine

Ken Forrester Old vine Reserve Chenin Blanc 2018, $17.95, hails from a South African specialist in this grape which also goes by ‘Steen’ in that country. From tinatkin.com we learn that “it’s rich and flavoursome with pear and nectarine fruit and a fresh, well-balanced finish.” – 91.

Jules Taylor Sauvignon Blanc 2018, $19.95, is a “certified sustainable” example from Mùarlborough on New Zealand’s South Island. “Wonderfully fruited and fabulously expressed,” writes Sam Kim of wineorbit.co.nz, who goes on to say that it is “packed with classic sauvignon flavours” and is “instantly appealing and delivers excellent vibrancy, finishing persistent and delicious.” - 94.

Volratz Trocken Riesling 2017, $21.95, from Germany’s Rheingau is full-bodied and dry, though not bone-dry (9 g. /litre of sugar). The Wine enthusiast tells us “it’s rounded and quite plush yet balanced by pert strikes of lemony acidity and a mouthwatering edge of salt.” – 90.

Bachelder Niagara Chardonnay 2017, $24.95, gives us an opportunity to try one of the wines our featured winemaker produces under his own name. According to winecurrent.com, we can expect “delicious flavours of fresh apricot, lemon curd, vanilla and a beautiful mineral layer completing the picture.” It is also described as having a creamy palate texture and a perfectly balanced finish. – 90.

Red Wine

Casas Del Bosque Reserva Carmenère 2017, $15.95, from Chile will appeal to fans of this “forgotten” grape. Ottawa writer Natalie MacLean tells us that this ‘Best value’ wine is “a succulent mouthful of blueberry, ripe dark cherries, sweet plum flavours, smoky vanilla and toasty oak spice. - 90.

Alamos Selección Malbec 2016, $16.95, is a very attractive red from Argentina. Expect a “full-body, tight yet velvety tannins no shortage of plummy fruit and fresh yet long finish.”  - jamessuckling.com – 92.

Peter Lehmann The Barossan Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, $21.95, from Australia, is new to our shelves, though its companion Shiraz has been very well received and can also be found in Vintages. This muscular wine shows layers of dark fruits and cassis with some herbal / tobacco/vanilla complexity and refined tannins. (a bottle of each would make a handsome gift at Christmas.)

Castorani Amorino Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2013, $24.95, hails from an Italian winery founded in 1793. In recent years it has been transformed into one of the most important producers in Abruzzo, according to Gambero Rosso Italian Wines, which assigned ‘three glasses’ to this example.  Anthony Gismondi in Vancouver explains “the nose is fragrant with delicate notes of black cherries, plums and spice. The attack is dry and fresh with more dark cherries and plums. The tannins are low, allowing the finish to go long and soft. A good match with turkey.” – 88.

Go get ‘em.