What makes a good restaurant wine list?

There are two points of view when answering this question. On one hand there is the merchant; on the other there is the diner. The needs are not identical, but when a wine list works for both, everybody wins.

Wine can be a very important part of a restaurant’s profit margin. Often, the work that goes into putting a wine on the table is less expensive than that of preparing the food, and in the end it can make significant difference to a restaurant’s bottom line. 

To maximize wine sales, there are several issues restaurants should consider.

First, make sure the wines on the list pair well with the items on the menu. Then, try to have options at a couple of price points that will appeal to different diners. As Vancouver writer Anthony Gismondi writes, the wine list should “match the food, the decor and the diner’s budget.”

Take into account the kinds of wines diners customarily order and have them available. 

Next, if a wine is on the list, then make sure it’s available. Today, a computer-printed list can be updated easily and so it should be accurate. This goes for correct spelling and vintage (if included) for each wine on offer, too. 

A restaurant can suggest pairings on the wine list, and, even better, servers should be familiar with the menu and which wines pair well, so that they can help diners with a selection. 

Sometimes restaurants like to have some wines that are “exclusive”, unlikely to be found in other restaurants in the area. For this to work, the staff needs to know about them and must be able to point them out and explain their suitability.

Lesser known wines can be found on the LCBO’s regular list, as well as in the Vintages section. Some are always available, some cycle through. Distributors, too, have many wines that never get to our shelves, but are really aimed at the restaurant trade. Having some of these wines as “specials” could be profitable and could appeal to customers open to something a little different.

Mark-up is one area where there can be a “dis-connect” between a restaurant’s interests and the interests of the customer. There are no set rules as to what an establishment can charge, but there can be a point beyond which a customer is being over-charged.

Generally speaking, it is reasonable to expect to pay two to three times the retail price of a bottle; if a wine cost $15, it could appear on a list at as much as $45. At $30, it would be a very well-priced, at $35, quite acceptable.

Restaurants have to factor all their costs into how they price both their food and their wine, and they have to be aware of what the market will bear.

Though a 200 to 300% mark-up may be an industry norm, a sliding scale makes sense, too, so that the more expensive the wine, the lower the mark-up applied. This approach would see diners more likely to choose a better wine. Fundamentally, the customer doesn’t want to feel ripped off over the price of wine.

When a restaurant factors in their profit on the number of bottles sold, it would probably find that the sliding-scale would provide a better result. 

$25 profit on a bottle of wine retailing for $25 is better than $20 on a $15 bottle. Taking it further, a $20 mark-up on that $25 bottle could see consumers happier to buy the better wine. 

Analysis of a restaurant’s profit on wine over time might justify a flat mark-up for every wine. I have read of one restaurant which marks all wines up by $15, period. 

Two other considerations when it comes to wine lists are House Wines and Wines-by the-Glass.

What is a House Wine? Simply put, it will be a less-expensive wine available by the glass or carafe, a bottle, or even by the litre. Sometimes, I suspect, restaurants don’t put much thought into their options here – it a kind of “selection by default” area. It needn’t be.

As writer Adam Teeter expressed on vinepair.com, “house wine is the red and white offerings that the restaurant feels would be most appealing to the largest number of guests. Sometimes these are wines the restaurant originally had on the list not labeled as house wines that became a favorite among guests and therefore elevated themselves to the “house” status, while other times they are wines the restaurant has identified as easy-drinking sippers that tend to go well with almost anything you would order. While in either case these wines probably won’t blow you away with their complexity, they will be perfectly fine to enjoy while you happily consume your meal.”

In other words, a good house wine shouldn’t be something a restaurants puts on the wine list to satisfy somebody too cheap to buy something better! 

In The Telegraph, Victoria Moore quoted a long time restaurateur who explained, “In the old way of doing it the house wine was the cheapest wine with the biggest margin. On a modern list, the house wine is good because it is a statement of who they are.”

There are many good inexpensive wines, such as the Fantini Farnese Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, $14.95 for 1.5 litres, or even the Peller Family Cabernet Merlot, $42.95 for the 4-litre box, that would be decent choices at the low end. But House Wines can be even better, and can set the signature for a restaurant.

Wines-by-the-Glass can be perfect for customers and strong profit points for restaurants.

Typically, wines poured by the glass are more expensive that those purchased by the bottle, but if you are only having one or two glasses, they make sense. If diners agree on the same wine or wine type, then it might make more sense to buy by the bottle. 

With Wines by the Glass, restaurants can afford to offer some better wines, but it is important that they are “movers”, not wines that might sell one or two glasses a day, while the remainder languishes - and oxidizes - in the bottle. With a good “by the Glass” program, a restaurant should consider some kind of wine-preservation system for opened bottles.

Generally when restaurants have “half-price” programs, either on a slower day or at slower times, such as Winey Wednesday or Thirsty Thursday, the results are quite positive. If the wines on offer are carefully chosen, they can provide a great opportunity for consumers to try something new, and at the same time, they can keep pushing the restaurant’s operating needle into the black.

In sum, a good Wine List is one that is accurate and up-to-date in terms of wine availability. It has reasonable mark-ups, offers wines that suit both the restaurant’s menu and status as well as the diner’s budget, and has a decent selection including wines by the glass. Whether on the list or menu, or provided by the server, suggested pairings can be a plus. Do it right, and everyone is happy!

August 17 Vintages Release

When I mull over the Vintages catalogue, I can’t help but be a little frustrated with all the good wines that are not provided to Sault Ste. Marie drinkers; for example, of the 7 Sparkling wines listed, we are getting none. Of the 11 Canadian wines, we will see only 3. In contrast, of 13 American wines, 8 are making their way here.

At the end of the day however, we will still see many interesting options, far more than we will ever pop the cork on. So let’s just count our blessings.  Here are some to consider:

White

Indomito Falanghina Del Beneventano 2018, $14.95, is a white wine from Campania. A bright straw yellow with green highlights in the glass, it opens up with aromas of citrus and banana. On the palate it displays a tangy minerality and apple/pear notes, finishing in a clean and refreshing fashion.

Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Côtes du Roussillon Blanc 2017, $15.95, is a wonderful blend of grapes native to the south of France. Made by the rock-solid firm of Chapoutier, the wine, according to robertparker.com, is “plump, round and richly textured in the mouth, yet it’s also refreshing with vibrant flavors of tangerine zest underscored by briny notes on the finish.” – 90. 

13^th Street White Palette 2016, $15.95, is an aromatic Niagara blend of Riesling (94%) and Gewurztraminer (6%). Vintages comments on its “gorgeous aromas of… cinnamon-spiced apple, sweet grapefruit, and lemon,” followed by “a subtle suggestion of sweetness and a citrusy finish.”

Dr. Siemens Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese Feinherb 2009, $19.95, is quite a mouthful, and not in name only. Considering its age and quality, it is a steal. From the Mosel, it is medium sweet and low in alcohol. According to robertparker.com, it has a “subtly creamy and…buoyant palate with sappy intensity” and an “infectiously juicy finish.” -91.

Rosé

Conde Valdemar Rosé 2018, $14.95, from Spain’s Rioja region, offers a cloak of red berry fruit over a delicious citrus core, and yet is fairly smooth on the palate. Consider it on its own or with seafood.

Duca Catemario Collezione Privata Pinot Grigio Rosé 2018, $14.95, from Friuli is the perfect rosé for Pinot Grigio lovers. Pale pink, it has a slight suggestion of tangy rhubarb followed by apricot and crisp citrus flavours. Vintages suggests savoury undertones that make it perfect for grilled fish

Xavier Vignon Côtes du Rhone Rosé 2018, $16.95, is made by a highly respected Rhone consultant, and the wine reflects his skill and experience. Peach and raspberry aromas lead off and crunchy nectarine flavours kick in along with flavours of lemon and watermelon. On the smoothly textured finish there is a salty minerality typical of vines grown in the region. A real winner.

Red 

Barahonda Organic Monastrell/Merlot 2017, $14.95, a Spanish red from Yecla, is one which begs for air, but let it breathe and you will truly enjoy the ripe cherry and vivid raspberry flavour that are riding on the wave of fresh tannin. There are also coffee, leather and pepper notes.  Big and flavourful and ready to drink.

Luciano Arduini Fontana del Fongo Valpolicella Classico 2017, $15.95, is beautifully structured and full flavoured with ripe cherry along with vanilla and mint spice. All in all a satisfying, well-structured red.

Provolo Tenuta Ca’Nove Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore 2014, $17.95, has three years of age on the wine above, along with the added impact of the ripasso method. “A delectable river of racy tang and ripe juicy fruit envelop the palate,” according to winecurrent.com, and “it’s nicely balanced… while the lingering, rich, dry finish is lip-smacking good.” -90.

Fabre Montmayou Reserva Cabernet Franc 2016, $18.95, garnered a 96 at the 2018 Decanter World Wine Awards. Normally we expect to see Malbec from Argentina, and so it is interesting to encounter this Cabernet Franc, a grape commonly associated with France’s Loire and our own Niagara. Decanter refers to it as gorgeous and “youthful with potential to explode with floral perfumed notes, cassis and clove, Great depth.” It suggests, however that this is a wine that begs for “protein”. Bring on the Beef.