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The Last Hurrah

The next Vintages Release, December 6, will be the last of the year, as traditionally the LCBO only has one release in December, no doubt a by-product of how busy they will become as we lead up to Christmas and New Year’s.
The next Vintages Release, December 6, will be the last of the year, as traditionally the LCBO only has one release in December, no doubt a by-product of how busy they will become as we lead up to Christmas and New Year’s.
 
As a result, you can expect to find some really good – in fact, excellent – wines in most price ranges.
 
We aren’t getting all of wines on the release, (in fact, none of the 22 champagnes or sparkling wines appear to be heading this way) and so there are quite a few you will only be able to salivate over unless you get an order in by Monday, December 1 – even then there’s no guarantee that they will still be available, and it may mean that even if you are successful, there will be no sign of them until the new year.
 
Nevertheless, I will make some suggestions of wines not slated for the Sault, as you also might be able to impose on friends and relatives in southern Ontario or Ottawa to make a trip to the liquor store on your behalf, and you can always check availability on-line at Vintages.com, as, for any wine, you can scroll through the province and check out areas that might work for you.
 
If all that seems like too much trouble, rest easy, as we are getting plenty of wines to satisfy us in almost every category.
 
Let’s start with some of the wines you have to order in or purchase elsewhere.
 
Freixenet Elyssia Gran Cuvée Brut Cava, $19.95 - This Spanish sparkler earned a whopping 95 from England’s Decanter.com - for me, one of the most reliable reference sources in the world for wine - and it called this Cava elegant and noted “Honey, pineapple and creamy vanilla on the palate.”
 
Wakefield Jaraman Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, $24.95 - Australia’s Wakefield has been producing “Best Buy” Cabs recently, and this beauty  will be brilliant, scoring 94 with tastings.com and carrying oodles of fruit, “moderate tannins” and great Cabernet character.
 
Morgenster Lourens River Valley 2005, $25.95 – Carrying an erobertparker.com 92, this is highly reminiscent of a fine Bordeaux, and is described thus: ”Very refined and demonstrating good persistence, this is an excellent wine.”
 
Chateau Nozières Cuvée Ambroise de L’Her Malbec Cahors 2011, $17.95 is a “rich and powerful” wine to lay down for a few years –The Wine Enthusiast says, “it’s smooth, opulent, with a burst of black berry flavors” – 92
 
Chateau Cambon La Pelouse 2010, $29.85, from the Haut-Médoc and Chateau La Confession 2010, $64.85, from St. Emilion both carry scores of 93, the first from James Suckling, formerly with the Wine Spectator, and the second from Robert Parker Jr. -  Parker loves lush and opulent block-busters, while Suckling pays attention to refinement and structure.
 
But we don’t need to leave home to find good stuff!
 
Loosen Bros. Dr. L Riesling 2013, $13.95 – Wine Enthusiast magazine credits Ernst Loosen for Riesling’s rising popularity and you can’t go wrong with this off-dry and fruity example which finishes vibrantly – it would be a good wine to serve with the Christmas turkey.
 
Lingenfelder Bird Label Riesling 2012, $14.95, is equally dependable and will be just as pleasing, with a little more complexity on the finish.
 
Treana Marsanne/Viognier 2011, $29.95, a 50/50 blend from California’s Central Coast, presents a couple of grapes best known in the south of France – the wine is described as “fleshy and broad on the palate, offering deep orchard and pit fruit flavors braced by zesty acidity and a gingery nuance” according to the International Wine Cellar - 90.
 
Pierre Sparr Réserve Gewürtztraminer 2012, $17.95, with long concentrated flavours, will be the driest of three whites from Alsace, while the Anne de Laweiss Vielles Vignes Lieu-Dit Patergarten Pinot Gris, $21.95, will be expressive and rich – all three are well-made, with the Henri Ehrhart Gewurztraminer 2012, $19.95, coming up the middle in flavour and sweetness.
 
In terms of value, I think Spain dominates on this release.
 
Spanish reds based on Tempranillo tend to have a dusty and herbal quality to them, which results in wines that are not overly fruity and sweet tasting, unlike Australian Shiraz or even Spanish reds in which Garnacha (Grenache) predominates.
 
On this release, there are several interesting Spanish reds, beginning with the Bodegas Balbàs Ardal Crianza 2005, $16.95, which according to Ottawa writer Natalie McLean is a “robust red”, “juicy and mouth-filling with layered flavours of mouthwatering blackberry and blueberry notes.”
 
Getting nine-year old wines at this price level is uncommon, and the favour is repeated with the Monasterio de las Viñas Gran Reserva 2005, $16.95, which with 50 percent Garnacha, will show more ripe fruit and is rounding into form, according to erobertparker.com – 91.
 
Monastir S.XII Cluny 2006, $19.95, is an interesting blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon, with 10 percent Merlot, resulting in a rich, stylish wine with “flavors of tobacco, coconut, sweet berry and cassis” – (Wine Enthusiast 91)
 
Cantine Due Palme Primitivo 2012, $15.95 from Puglia will be a good contrasting wine for Zin lovers, providing more of an Italian take with more grip than we commonly expect in a Zinfandel – all in all a good wine at a decent price.
 
Domaine de Bila-Haut Occultum Lapidem 2012, $24.95 is an astonishingly fine wine from Michel Chapoutier, arguably the best producer in the Rhone with his bio-dynamic offerings – erobertparker.com suggests it has another decade and more life in it with great structure and focus, and scored it 94!
 
Dandelion Vineyards Lioness of McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012, $19.95, is a gold medal sure bet, described by the International Wine Challenge as being “Big but fresh, [with] blackcurrant and milk chocolate flavours.”
 
Which way do you turn for outstanding Argentine Malbec when there are three excellent examples in the $18-20 range, along with a wonderful blend at $24?
 
Salentein Reserve Malbec 2012, $18.95, is lively with dark fruit flavours and a long deep finish, while the Susana Balbo Signature Malbec 2012, $19.95, is “juicy” and “fruit-driven” with “excellent precision and inner-mouth tension” according to its 91+ from the International Wine Cellar. 
 
Terrazas de Los Andes Reserva Malbec 2011, $18.95, scores even higher for its long integrated finish and full, sweet-fruit lushness, and the Clos De Los Siete 2011, $22.95, basically a Malbec-first Bordeaux blend with a splash on Syrah, has “really insidious flavour intensity” and “sweet ripe tannins” – the International wine Cellar claims it is “a real essence of Argentine red wine” – 91.
 
I tasted several wines at the Coppola Estate Winery in Sonoma this Fall, and I trust that the Francis Ford Coppola Director’s Cut Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, $36.95, will deliver amply for the price, with leathery, dark fruit aromas and a warm, expansive mouth-feel – it really wants you take it to dinner, and it will probably order a steak!
 
The second label of Duckhorn Vineyards, the Decoy line with the 2013 Pinot Noir , $35.95, in this case, certainly falls in line with the prices you expect to pay for smaller production Pinots from Sonoma, and Natalie McLean describes it as “full-bodied, round and rollicking with good natured ripe fruit, spices and cedarwood smoke”, scoring it 92 – what’s not to like? 
 
The LCBO has its gift packs out in full array, and I will likely address them in a couple of weeks, but in the  meantime, you could do a lot worse than buying some of the wines I have mentioned to present as gifts – there are lots of holiday bottle bags in the stores, too! 
 
Start shopping!

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