Summer Whites

When people talk about summer wines, I’m sure that the picture they have in their minds involves being outside on a bright, warm summer day.

While that may be the ideal, our summers usually pack a lot more variety in the weather: some days perfect, others cool, still others sultry and humid, and others, of course, pouring rain.

When we add personal tastes to the mix, then we are, literally, all over the map.

Presuming, though, that we have that dream day, what are the characteristics of the wines that measure up to the weather?

White, red or rosé, the rule of thumb is for wines that are crisp, refreshing, light and versatile, wines that work well for sipping or with lighter fare, and sometimes even with food from the grill.

Sauvignon Blanc, Vinho Verde, Riesling, and the little known Muscadet come to mind for whites. 

If you prefer Chardonnay, then the unoaked style would probably better fit the profile.

Sauvignon Blanc, with grapefruit notes, a musky nose, and a strong acidic backbone is a summer staple. 

Frisky Zebras from South Africa is an inexpensive example in an easy-going style for only $8.95.

It has some new-mown hay on the nose, and some peach and lime notes with a relatively short finish.

Contrast this with the more strongly flavoured examples, some of which display the distinctive ‘bouquet’ writer Jancis Robinson describes as ‘cat’s pee on a gooseberry bush”!

Oyster Bay from Marlborough, the heart of Sauvignon Blanc territory in New Zealand is a classic, with grass and passion-fruit aromas with tangy citrus and gooseberry flavours following crisply.  Until August 18 it is on sale for $16.95.

Likewise, Babich Sauvigon Blanc  from the same region is available at the Korah Road store for $14.95.  You’ll find more of the tropical notes, along with a ‘minerally’ tart finish.

Sauvignon Blanc has its fans, but its strong flavours may not suit everyone. 

Another wine just begging for warm summer days is Vinho Verde from Portugal.

A key characteristic is the slight tingle on the tongue. Not quite a sparkling wine, the effervescence is intentional. 

While they may be red or rosé, the ones we usually see are white, made from native varietals in the north of Portugal.

There are a few stand-bys in our stores in the $9 range, such as Gazela and Aveleda Vinho Verde Fonte.

They are simple and citrus-y with a lovely mouth-cleansing bite.

In Vintages, the Varanda do Conde 2011, $13.95 is based on the best grape of the region, Alvarinho. 

A peach and apple bouquet starts things off, and from there everything is fresh and balanced, with a good mouthfeel, and crisp finish.  It cries out for seafood.

Riesling is a good choice if you enjoy a kiss of sweetness, though these wines can also be very dry.   

While it’s German in origin, you need only look to Ontario to find benchmark examples. 

Rieslings are aromatic with what is often a floral nose, though sometimes you can even get a whiff of petrol.

When made off-dry, these wines are reduced in alcohol, another advantage when the weather is sultry.

Angels Gate Sussreserve Riesling, $13.95, is my choice when I want that enhanced sweetness. 

A bit of the unfermented grape juice is added before bottling to lift the flavours reminiscent of peach, pear, and citrus.

Henry of Pelham and Cave Spring Cellars have excelled with their Rieslings.  With Cave Springs, you have to pay attention as they have both a dry and off-dry version for $14.95, but the labels make them hard to distinguish. 

The off-dry version has 22 grams per litre of sugar, the dry 13.  

Try them both to find the style you prefer.

In vintages, the grapes for Henry of Pelham Estate Rielsing, $15.95, received a longer hang time – and therefore more ripeness. 

The interplay of lush fruit and bright acidity makes this quite attractive.

To experience Riesling at the upper end of the scale, the Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling 2010, $35.20, can be an education. 

Dry but energized, it has some of that petrol, along with some honeyed richness. 

It’s in Vintages as well.

At this time of year, we are seeing a number of Muscadets from the Loire in Vintages. 

A clean acidic bite is common; however, with the Chateau De La Gravelle Muscadet Sevre & Maine, 2006, $15.95 everything changes as a result of the extra age. 

It is mature and full-bodied for a white.

On the regular list, the Sauvion sur Lie, $12.95, picks up some toastiness from the time on its lees to go along with some lemon-lime on the palate.

Coming August 3 for $13.95 is another distinctive wine, Domaine des Lauriers Prestige Picpoul de Pinet, 2011.

Stone-dry with a grapefruit tang, it, too, is excellent with seafood.

When the weather turns warm next weekend, break out some of these whites and see what you think.

So as not to neglect red wines totally, here are a few suggestions.

From the upcoming August 3 release,

La Posta Estela Armando Vineyard Bonarda 2011, Chile, $14.95,  Bonarda is one of the most widely planted grapes in Chile.  International Wine Cellar describes it as “sweet, pliant, and generous…kept lively by brisk acidity.”

Don David Finca La Maravilla #6 Malbec 2011, Chile $16.95.  Don David wines always deliver good value. 

This might keep a couple of years with its oaky backbone and deep dark fruit flavours.

From last week’s release,

The Show Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, California $17.95.  Juicy and rich, with light acidity, and vanilla spice, this is one the LCBO is suggesting for your barbecue. 

Fire up the ribs!