Pop that cork!

Needless to say, if anything is associated with Celebration, it is Champagne… though, I would prefer drinking it to spraying it around the locker- room in “Sports Champion” fashion. Not too many of us are going to win the Super Bowl, but many who will be greeting the New Year at midnight will want to do it with a glass of sparkling wine in hand.

While we think Champagne, more often than not we may be just as happy to toast in the New Year with some other kind of fizz. We have a whole range of options, from a Roederer Cristal Champagne for about $335 - the 1995 Rosé Vintage is $3,000! - all the way down to the very venerable and still available Baby Duck which is a whopping $12.60 for a 1500 ml. bottle.

Lest we turn up our noses too quickly, every store in town is well stocked with Baby Duck and it will no doubt outsell the Cristal, hands down.

In between there are lots of alternatives, with every wine-producing country having some version of sparkling wine to share, be they Cavas from Spain, Proseccos from Italy, or even very worthy examples from Ontario.

Starting at the top, we have Champagne. To be called Champagne, a wine must be produced in that specific area of France, and there the wines are distinguished by the secondary fermentation they undergo in the bottle. Once the wine is bottled, it is “inoculated” with a sugar and yeast mixture, and capped. Over time, a second fermentation introduces the carbon dioxide bubbles, and we have champagne.

This method is replicated worldwide, and usually, it is described as ‘Traditional’.

Under lock and key in Vintages we have such gems as the Roederer Cristal mentioned above and the iconic Dom Perignon Brut Vintage Champagne, this at $260. On the regular shelves, however, there are a number of other options including Veuve Clicquot, one of the most popular Champagnes at the LCBO. When you consider that the Brut Champagne retails for $74.25, then the $77.05 “Ice Jacket” version which comes in a form-fitting carrying case that will keep the bubbly chilled for up to 2 hours becomes an attractive option, particularly if you are taking it to a New Year’s Eve party.

The Yellow Label Brut was just reviewed in the Wines & Spirits magazine, which explained that “the flavours are enriched by toasty brioche and spiciness from the lees aging. Simple and saturated, finely made.” - 90.

Still, a couple of reliable alternatives are more attractively priced. Champagne Victoire Brut Prestige, $39.95, is consistent and considered a great value for its persistent flavours of apple, pear and pineapple and its refined mousse – that is, its bubbly effervescence.

The other “bargain Champagne is the Nicolas Feuillatte Brut, currently $5 off at $44.95. Though this particular example was not reviewed in the recent Wine Spectator issue on Champagne, three other offerings made by this house were, and all scored in the low to mid-90s. This one should certainly be respectable.

Elsewhere in France, sparkling wines made in the traditional method go by the name of “Crémant”. While Champagne is usually produced from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir or Pinot Muenier, Crémants will feature the varietals found in the region of production.

Bailly Lapierre Réserve Brut Crémant de Bourgogne, $19.95, is an example from Burgundy which contains Gamay and Aligoté in addition to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The Wine Enthusiast tells us that “this wine shows both rich fruitiness and a crisp texture. Citrus and apple dominate this tangy wine that finishes with attractive acidity.”

Of the Caves de Beblenheim Brut Rosé Crémant d’Alsace, Natalie MacLean writes, “it's light, with mouth-watering notes of wild field raspberries and some toast, especially on the finish. Medium-bodied and juicy with a savoury goodness.” - 90.

Turning to Spain, from year to year, the Segura Viudas Brut Reserva Cava at $15.95 earns top value rankings. It was #95 in the Wine Enthusiast’s “Top 100 Best Buys for 2018” where it was described as showing “aromas of white fruits, citrus, tropical fruits, and light floral notes. The palate is exquisite, complex and full of flavour, with good acidity and notes of lime and pineapple. It is dry and long on the finish.”

Ontario can hold its own when it comes to sparkling wine. One of my favourites can be found at the Wine Rack stores. It is the Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Entourage, $29.95. Sara d’Amato explains that it offers “an abundance of citrus and stone fruit, sprightly acidity and the calming presence of toasty, lees-derived flavours palate. A nicely balanced dosage keeps the palate dry and crisp adding only mid-weight roundness that contributes to a widely appealing style.” Score - 90.

Henry of Pelham has established itself as a leader in Ontario sparkling wines with its Cuvée Catharine line. The Rosé Brut, presently $3 off at $29.95, carries a nose of fresh strawberry and cranberry with biscuit, toast, citrus and mineral notes discernible on the palate, along with refreshing effervescence.

If we move away from sparklers made in the traditional method, we are left with those which introduce the carbonation via the Charmat method in a big pressurized tank. This is where we find Prosecco and other less expensive, but pleasing bubblies.

Santa Margherita in Italy’s Veneto offers both a Brut Rosé and the Brut Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore. The Rosé, $19.95, is a blend of Chardonnay and Glera, with 5 per cent Malbec, the last providing the colour here. It is lively and refreshing with red berry and yeasty notes. The Prosecco, currently $2 off at $17.95, comes from the best region for Prosecco and is made from the classic prosecco grape, Glera. The wine has a creamy texture, thanks to three months on its lees. It has gentle carbonation, and notes of pear and peach.

For a Canadian option, consider the Vieni Estates Momenti Sparkling Wine. A blend of Vidal and Pinot Grigio, the wine has earned scores in the high 80s, which is quite respectable for a wine retailing for $13.95! Just off-dry at 18 grams of sugar per litre, the wine has a good citrus bite to balance things off. Peach/apple flavours are offset by toasty notes and some minerality.

If you prefer a sweeter wine, then we are moving into Moscato country. Aside from the reliable Martini & Rossi Asti, $14.45 with 89 grams of sugar per litre, consider the Bottega Petalo Il Vino dell’ Amore Moscato at $13.95 with 87 grams of sugar per litre. The LCBO references orange and honey notes.

In Vintages, you can find the Benjamin Bridge Nova 7 from Nova Scotia. It is only slightly drier with 78 grams of sugar per litre, and the effervescence is softer than we find with the other wines I’ve mentioned. This is a blend of many hybrids, along with a little Chardonnay. A Nova Scotia retailer, Bishop’s Cellar, suggests that this is “a wine with a light rose colour, delicate aromas of ripe peaches, jasmine, lychee. The palate is energetic and fresh with a light petillance and lots of fruit flavours ranging from sour cherry to ripe mango. The finish is clean with a hint of minerality.

With New Year’s Eve just a few days ahead now’s the time to check some of these out. Enjoy, and Happy New Year!