First Families

“I think we’ve met before…D’Artagnan?”

Etienne Hugel liked my mustache.  I like his wines.

Last month I attended the Primum Familiae Vini wine tasting in Toronto at the Royal Ontario Museum.

The First Families of Wine is an informal association of eleven of the finest producers of wine in Europe that began in 1991 when Robert Drouhin of Burgundy and Miguel Torres of Spain realized that it would be advantageous for them and other eminent producers to share knowledge and talent in the pursuit of excellence in wine-making and in business.

Today, in addition to Drouhin and Torres, PMV includes the Antinori Family of Tuscany, and the Incisa della Rocchetta family with Tenuta San Guido on the Tuscan coast in the Bolgheri region, Chateau Mouton Rothschild of Bordeaux, Hugel & Fils of Alsace, Famille Perrin of the Rhone Valley, Port specialists Symington Estates of Portugal’s Duoro,region, Pol Roger of Champagne, the iconic Vega Sicilia of Spain, and Egon Muller Scharzhof of Germany’s Rhine region.

As an association, they share grape-growing and wine-making information, and they promote traditional methods and respect for terroir – that is, the unique characteristics of the places in which they carry on their craft.

At the tasting, it was an experience to be in the presence of the principals, as family members were there to pour their wines.  The next evening, there was also a dinner – wherever PMV goes annually, the proceeds from the dinner are donated to a local charity; in Toronto, the beneficiary was the Toronto Foundation for Student Success.

I have to acknowledge that, while I am eager to taste the best of the best, I actually found myself enjoying many of the more affordable wines that were presented.  That may be a reflection of my own plebeian tastes, but I think it also indicates that the less expensive wines are ready to drink at a much earlier stage than their powerhouse relatives – then again, it might indicate that it takes a more experienced palate than mine to understand and appreciate what the very best have to offer.

Which brings me back to Hugel.  While the majority of the wines at the event were in the $70 to several hundred dollar range, Hugel’s white wines of Alsace topped out at $75 for the dessert wine, Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive – a late harvest delight.

Many of the wines were “event exclusives” and not to be found at the LCBO; however, both Hugel’s 2013 ‘Gentil’ and its 2012 Riesling are available at our Great Northern Road store.

The Gentil, $15.95, a blend of several grapes including Riesling, Gewurztraminer, and Pinot Blanc among others, is simply delicious, with a marvellous depth of fruit and lemon/lime acidity; though it is just fine all by itself, it would be perfect with typical Asian dishes.

The Riesling, a bump up at $24.95, is a classic example of the Alsatian treatment of this grape, with great fruit extraction – in other words, marvellously tasty – the Wine Spectator picks up on pear, star anise, and lemon zest with the texture presenting a lushness associated with beeswax.

Perrin, along with Chapoutier and Guigal, is one of the top houses in France’s Rhone Valley.  I was particularly taken with the Gigondas la Gille 2012, $29.95, a Grenache dominated blend with great fruit - erobertparker.com scored it 92, praising the sweet dark cherry fruit, classic style with fine tannin, leather and herbal notes along with its “excellent concentration and rocking finish”.

Other Perrin wines in our stores include the La Vieille Ferme line on the regular list, with a very decent Cotes du Ventoux red for just $11.95 and the Rosé for $10.95 – always a summer hit.

The Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2012, $29.95, the second wine of Perrins’s Chateauneuf –du-Pape of that name, also has a high “Parker” rating with similar characteristics to the Gigondas, but greater depth.

At $16.95, the Perrin Nature Cotes Du Rhone 2012, $16.95 is considered elegant and approachable by Vintages, with dark fruit, earth and smoke.

None of the wines from Baron Philippe de Rothschild at the event are currently available, though many of their lesser wines from outside Bordeaux can be found on our shelves.  Mouton Rothschild, one of Bordeaux’s first growths, retails for about $1000 to $1500 for the current vintages in the system, so this is rarified company, indeed.

I tasted Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild 2004, an excellent, full and smooth deep red – “dark and nuanced” according to Jancis Robinson…and only $449 a bottle.  This made their white wine, Aile d’Argent 2011, a steal by comparison at $139 – it is a classic Bordeaux Sauvignon blanc/Semillon white with a full mouth feel, described by James Suckling as full and rich and their best ever scoring it a heady 95.

Meeting Julien Beaumarchais de Rothschild, grandson of Baron Philippe and son of Baroness Philippine, was a highlight, not because of who he was, but because of how he was. Slim, earnest and intense, he is a wonderful ambassador whose sincerity and passion for his heritage in wine was crystal clear and genuine.

The traditions and standards established by his grandfather and enhanced by his mother are in good hands.

The other person who impressed me, not surprisingly, was Miguel Torres.  With a family heritage in wine in Spain’s Penedes region dating back to the 1600’s, and holdings not only in Spain but South America and California, Torres might be forgiven for coming across as aloof, but nothing would be further from the truth.

He was warm and welcoming, and as enthusiastic as his sister, Marimar, who lives and breathes for her Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays in Sonoma.  They delight in what they do, and Miguel’s relaxed and genuine charm is such that you could easily imagine sitting down with him at a kitchen table and enjoying wine and stories together.

Only one bottle of Altos Ibericos Crianza 2012, $16.95, remains in the Sault, but there is still plenty elsewhere – you can check locations at Vintages.com – it is pure summer-in-a-glass tempranillo, a smooth and dry Rioja which is completely satisfying.

Likewise, you’ll have to look elsewhere for Celeste Crianza 2011, $20.95, from high altitude vineyards in the Ribera del Duero region.  It has a great, heady nose of tar and roses and beautiful, expressive rich flavours.  The burr of tannin is noticeable on the finish, but the wine is over-all yummy – and it can still be found in the province.

If you can’t manage to locate the two mentioned above, you can console yourself with Torres Gran Coronas Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2011, inky dark and deep with delicious dark berry fruit and mocha notes, and good balance – untilMay 24 it is $2 off at $17.95 – your investment will be rewarded.

I will be mentioning other wines related to the event in future columns, but I have say, I enjoyed the evening thoroughly.

In Stock

Rather than write about wine which we may receive on the May16 release, I want to point you towards some wines already here and waiting at the Great Northern Road store.

From the Lake Erie North Shore, Colio’s Bricklayers’ Reward Old Farm Cabernet Franc 2012, $19.95, honours the tradesmen who founded the winery –and they would undoubtedly feel well-honoured with this deep red wine with great texture and ripeness, dark berries on the nose, plum cherry on the palate, and good grip on the finish.

Columbia Crest Grand Estates Merlot 2012, $16.95 carries a Wine Spectator 89, and was described therein as “velvety, focused and generous, with black cherry and coffee flavors hinting at chocolate as the finish extends.”

Chile’s Terra Noble Gran Reserva Carmenère 2011, $18.95, scored 91 with the WS folks, who detect “concentrated cherry tart and dried raspberry flavors” and a “zesty [well-spiced] finish,” suggesting it will drink well for the next 5 years.

Saint Clair Pioneer Block2 Swamp Block Sauvignon Blanc 2013, $24.95, should have fans of New Zealand’s take on this white grape drinking for joy, as it also has a WS 91 for being “juicy and fleshy” with a “long persistent finish” and “lemon grapefruit and apple flavors at the core”. 

On the regular list, two wines from Charles Smith in Washington State should provide great pleasure.  Kung Fu Girl Riesling made the Top 100 two years in a row and the Best Buy list 5 years running with the Wine Spectator – the winery suggest this is perfect for Asian cuisine with its stone fruit and citrus character and long mineral finish. Until May 24, it is $1 off at $17.95.

Charles & Charles Post 35 Red Blend is an incredibly rich and smooth red, with dark cherry and strawberry on the palate and coffee notes toward the satisfying finish. Give it a chance to breathe, and you will love this wine which is just $13.95 until May 24.

If you've had enough of wine, and savour cream liqueurs, the new Chocolate Cream from Laura Secord, $29.95, will certainly deliver all you could hope for – it has a medium creamy texture with a true, intense chocolate taste lingering on the finish.  It is satisfying on its own, but would be delicious over vanilla ice cream, too.  Until May 22, while quantities last, it comes with a coupon for $5 towards Laura Secord chocolates.

Saultlicious 

Tickets are more than half sold for the June 13 venue-to-venue celebration featuring Ontario wines and local restaurateurs.  Tickets may be purchased at the Mill Market, or you can call Mary Ledlow at Vinaissance -705-946-2503 for tickets. What a swell party it will be!