Being virtuous in Vintages

Having weathered the temptations to “go big” and be generous to others, and ourselves, over the Holidays and having just put the New Years Finale behind us,  we find that the LCBO is rolling out its first release on January 11, with the theme, “Smart Buys 2020.”

Perhaps the smart thing to do would be to look the other way and to tighten our belts and zip up our wallets in the ‘Celebration Aftermath’. Perhaps.

But, if our track record is any indication, we are usually prepared to ‘bargain up’ after the Holiday Season has ended. The LCBO understands this, and so in this release, we find a higher number of rather inexpensive, good value wines which will entice us to postpone the austerity plan and to purchase wines that will see us through the next few months as we put our New Year’s resolutions into effect… either “into effect” or “to the test” – you decide.

Here are some of the wines which might challenge you to ‘ante up’ just one more time.

White Wines

Fogolar Riesling 2016, $16.95, is a Niagara white made by Marc Pistor who was raised in Sault Ste. Marie, and who has gone on to become a solid producer both of his own trademark “Fogolar” wines and wines for other established wineries in Ontario. 

Off-dry, this is a delicious Riesling with peach and citrus flavours in perfect harmony, along with a stony mineral note on the finish. Spicy Asian food or roast chicken, this is the wine to enjoy.

Boya Sauvignon Blanc 2018, from Chile, may be only $14.95, but the South American wine guide, Descorchados, calls it a white “with outstandingly intense acidity and mineral aromas in a tremendously fresh white.” – 94.

Susana Balbo is widely recognized and appreciated for her well-made, good-tasting, yet inexpensive wines from Argentina, and her Crios Chardonnay 2018, $15.95, will please those who appreciate the fruit-forward style. Vintages tells us that this example “features lemon and tropical fruit accompanied by a light touch of vanilla.”

Tussock Jumper Chenin Blanc 2019, $12.95, from South Africa is back. This tasty and honest white is made from the white grape most prominently associated with South Africa, and the fruit comes from both trellised vineyards and bush vines, the latter lending structure to the finished product. Expect sensations of peach and pineapple along with some flint-like notes and a touch of honey.

Domaine de Joy Envie 2017, $14.95, is new to Vintages and comes from the southwest of France. It is a blend of Columbard, Gros Manseng, and Ugni Blanc. Roger Voss of the Wine Enthusiast says that in this rich white wine “kiwi and lychee are balanced by the taut, mineral texture and acidity.” – 90.

Arca Nova Vinho Verde, $13.95 is another of those refreshing Portuguese whites noted for having a tingling effervescence that will be appreciated now with food or in the coming summer on the patio. Clean light and simple, it has an 88 from wineandspiritsmagazine.com.

Vetiver Viura 2014, $15.95, from Spain is tremendously attractive. It was #62 on the Wine Spectator’s “Top 100” for 2016, and it now has some bottle age which will have brought harmony to the wine. “Bold” “expressive” and “juicy” are some of the terms with which it was described. – 91.

Riolite Il Poggio Guerriero Falanghina Beneventano 2017, $15.95, is a mouthful, in more ways than one.  Luca Maroni, an Italian critic known for his exuberant scores, gave this a 97, but more importantly, he asserted that this was “absolutely the best among the white wines tasted this year…A show of pear, grape and plum, thick pulp, clear fragrance, and wonderful gustative smoothness.” Wow.

Red Wine

Bruce Trail Red 2012, $13.95, is an intriguing offer from Vieni Estates in Niagara, created to help raise funds for the Bruce Trail Conservancy. This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot along with the popular hybrids which thrive in our climate - Baco Noir and Marechal Foch. It is unusual to find an inexpensive wine with such bottle age. This earthy red has good acidity and reveals flavours of prune, plum and leather. It is worth trying just to see what this is all about.

Those who enjoy French reds have plenty of options. Chateau Saint-Louis La Perdrix L’ Envol 2018, $12.95, earned a gold medal in Lyon this past year. Expect “ripe and full dark fruit, peppery spice, and touches of smoke with good balance and supple structure,” says Vintages.

Agamy Louis Tete Petites Pierres Regnié, $14.95, also stands out, as it comes from one of the specific Village designations in Beaujolais. We are told by Vintages that this elegant and supple red offers juicy cherry fruit and smoky undertones. 

Chateau Recougne 2016, $15.95, is drinking beautifully right now. A Bordeaux Supérieur, the wine received a 90 from the Wine Spectator, which says, “this sports a dark and toasty profile, with tobacco, bay leaf and charcoal notes mixed together and backed by a core of steeped black currant fruit.”

Camille Cayran Cave de Cairanne Le Chêne Noir 2017, $17, is a beauty from the Rhone with a 95 from the Decanter World Wine Awards 2018 which called it “lovely and expressive… concentrated, juicy and fresh with succulent tannins. Unbelievable value.”

Among several attractive wines from Italy, we find the Stemmari Nero d’Avola 2017, $14.95, from Sicily, which has “remarkably balanced flavours of dark berries, stewed cherries, and soft anise spice [which] carry over a juicy acidity that seduces the palate. Memorably drinkable. Excellent.” – 91 (Ultimate Wine Challenge).

Michele Chiarlo Le Orme Barbera d’Asti 2016, $15.95, is perfect for those who like their reds lighter and lively. “On the succulent palate, supple tannins and fresh acidity balance juicy Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry and licorice. It’s easy drinking and savoury.” – 90 (Wine Enthusiast).

‘Value’ is relative,, and sometimes higher priced wines can over-deliver significantly, too. Luciano Arduini Classico Superiore Valpolicella Ripasso 2017, $20.95, is one of those wines. ‘Classico Superiore’ tells us the wine is from the very best production area for Valpolicella. Then, high-scoring Luca Maroni enthuses “extraordinary strong taste of fruits with perfect smoothness, as well as full fragrance and freshness. He goes on to use “extraordinary” again, along with “incredible” and “exceptional” – 98. Who can resist!

Likewise, the Marques de la Concordia Viña Alarde Reserva 2013, $17.95  offers a great bang for the buck, and a bit of a challenge, too. From Spain’s Rioja region, we are told that “flavours of tobacco, spiced plum and oak outmuscle the wine’s fruit, while this is mouth-filling but plodding on the finish.” – 90 (Wine Enthusiast).

If Pinot Noir is your “go-to” choice, then two examples should suit you. Echeverria Gran Reserva Pinot Noir 2017, $15.95 is from Chile. “Polished, showing lovely Pinot typicity. Aromas of spices, herbs and black cherry with excellent definition and lift.” – 93 decanter.com.

At $16.95, Brella Pinot Noir 2014 from Oregon’s Willamette Valley stands out at this price for a wine from this region and with this much bottle age. Sara d’Amato explains, “this elegant pinot noir has come into its own with softened tannins and a harmony of complex flavours. Notes of pepper, cedar, black cherry, bramble and tilled earth.” – 90 (winealign.com)

Other seductions include the Ricardo Santos Tercas Bonarda 2015, $15.95, from Argentina, and Portugal’s Solar Dos Lobos Tinto 2017, $12.95, and many, many more. Check them out on the 14^th, and be sure to ask the Wine Consultant for advice.

Happy New Year!