Beaujolais, Nouveau, and Novello

Long before “Movember”, the celebration in November wasn’t about Mustaches, but rather about the chance to drink the year’s first new wines.  Beaujolais, a lighter style of wine made from the Gamay grape, was particularly suited for this purpose.

Out of what would have been originally harvest celebrations, it has become the practice to release the freshly made Beaujolais on the third Thursday of November – this year, November 15.  Producers would compete to be the first to get their wines to Paris on that day.  In time people all over the world wanted to participate in the festivities.

 I can recall one big celebration over twenty years ago at Toronto’s Royal York beginning on Wednesday evening, culminating with the opening at midnight of the year’s first Beaujolais Nouveau.

 There was so much “hype” that people would line up at the LCBO stores on Thursday morning to get their Nouveau and join in the party. Since then, things have calmed down significantly, though many still like to get to the stores early for their “fix” of new wine.  The wine is meant to be drunk young, though some can hold for a few months.

 The method of production, Carbonic Maceration, actually involves fermentation within the uncrushed grapes themselves in stainless steel tanks for 15 days. Then the grapes are crushed for a regular fermentation of 5 or 6 days.  This cuts down on tannins and results in a very fresh tasting wine, sometimes with a bit of fizz detectable.  The wine should be chilled a little for drinking.  It has little tannin, so no bitterness, and clean, grapey flavour. 

Prices will vary, but you can expect to pay between $9 and $15 for a bottle.  $15 seems like rather a lot to pay for something that was a grape two months ago, but when you have to factor in its airfare, I guess the cost goes up. 

The LCBO has three wines in that upper price category.  From what I’ve read, there isn’t much to choose from.  Gord Stimmell of the Toronto Star found the Mommessin delicate, while the DuBoeuf Beaujolais-Villages had black cherry and a ”nicely rich plum finish”. The Joseph Drouhin Beaujolais Villages offered good structure, with lilac, candied cherry, and banana.

There are three other French wines on the release; none of the three are Beaujolais, however.  Stimmell ranked the $8.95 Georges DuBoeuf Gamay Nouveau, from the Ardèche, as the best value on the release.  He found it tasty and gutsy.  I thought it had some depth, and, on the aftertaste, I could actually sense some of that “banana” essence others have identified with this style of wine.  The Catalans Primeur, (first wine)  $9.95, a blend of Syrah and Merlot,  suggested candied fruit and a bit of the “bubblegum” frequently associated with the freshly made wines.  Maison JeanJean’s Primeur from the Languedoc in the south of France is Syrah based.  Stimmell found it light and slightly sweet. 

From Italy we get Novello wines traditional released on St. Martin’s Day, November 11, made in the same style as the Nouveau, but from traditional Italian grapes. With the Novello del Veneto,$9.95, you’ll likely get the Corvino grape, the mainstay for Valpolicella.  Stimmell ranked this one, with its ‘Lion of Venice’ motif on the label, as best of the bunch with sandalwood, black cherry, and yes, “Banana”!!

With the, Tollo Terre di Chieti $8.95, from Abruzzi, I expect we are drinking Montepulciano.   This apparently is simple, with cherry and vanilla accents.

Ontario, a good producer of Gamay, joins the party with Reif  The Fool Gamay Nouveau and Chateau des Charmes ‘Generation Seven’.   Writer David Lawrason of Wine Align, noting the excellent 2012 harvest we‘ve had in Ontario,

considers The Generation Seven, $11.95 the best of class for the whole release, with an almost creamy texture, but nice acidic balance.  I found Reif’s wine, $9.95, quite light at first, but given a little time to breathe, it was pleasant and mildly fruity.

But back to Beaujolais.  The “real” Beaujolais.  Beaujolais is a sub region of Burgundy, but while Burgundy reds are usually made from Pinot Noir, Beaujolais’s grape is Gamay Noir. Even when it’s not ‘Nouveau’, Beaujolais is a wine meant to be drunk relatively young.

That said, there are many levels of production quality, from the basic Beaujolais, to Beaujolais Villages, to the 10 specific Village Cru. There is also Beaujolais Superieur, generally from the southern part of the region.

Interestingly, the regular Georges de Boeuf Beaujolais Villages is only $12.95. (we aren’t paying the air fare, I guess!) You’ll see it has more substance and depth of colour than a Nouveau, with good acidity and plum/strawberry notes.  Again, chill slightly, and try it with roast chicken.

 Other de Boeuf wines include the regular Beaujolais, $11.95 and Brouilly, $16.95, from one of the Villages mentioned below.  To really appreciate the distinctions, you basically have to comparison taste.  One of the least expensive examples is the Loron & Fils Beau!, $9.95.  The Globe and Mail gives a decent review, impressed with its concentration.

Within the 10 specifically designated villages, there is a definite range of styles, from light and forward, to rather hefty with a potential for some aging. 

While there can be variation in every sector, the three ’Villages’ known for producing the lightest, more floral wines are Brouilly, Regnié, and Chiroubles.

Mid-weight wines are found in Fleurie, St. Amour, and Cote de Brouilly, while the bigger wines usually come from Moulin-à-Vent, Juliénas, Chénas, and particularly Morgon.  Interestingly, no wine from these 10 village areas can be used for Beaujolais Nouveau. 

In Vintages, the Brun Terres Dorées Morgon 2010, $19.95, is an example of how big a wine from Beaujolais can actually become.  While most are meant for relatively early consumption, this wine from a producer noted for wines of purity and exceptional flavour has great structure and persistent fruit flavours.  It can age for years and would benefit from decanting if you were to drink it now.

Ontario’s Niagara region is also a top producer of quality Gamay.  Cave Spring Cellars 2010 Gamay Noir, $14.95, is a great example with earthy spice and fruit notes, soft tannins, and fruity warm finish.  At $12.95, the Angel’s Gate Gamay is also highly recommended.  Smooth with appropriate acidity, there’s an impression of leather along with good berry fruit.

Refreshing acidity marks the Chateau des Charmes 2009 Gamay Noir, $12.55.  It has all the character of a good Gamay, along with some cherry and earthy notes on the palate.

Gamy can be “under-appreciated” in an age that craves big fruit-smacking wines; but for simple sipping, or for milder flavoured dishes, Gamay can provide al lot of pleasure.

That said, if you are looking for something with flavours polar opposite to Gamay, consider the Café Culture Pinotage, $12.95, which has just joined the regular list.  Pinotage is the distinctive grape of South Africa, a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault.  By carefully and imaginatively toasting the barrels, wine makers have been able to create a wine with intriguing coffee overtones.  It is smooth and deep, and begs for flavourful roasted meats.