Apples to apples, wine to wine

Each month, the LCBO features many wines as “Limited Time Offers” with a few dollars off, along with Vintages Releases of wines of limited availability. The Aug. 3 Vintages line-up offers us a chance to compare some fairly inexpensive items from both categories to see how they stack up.

Viognier to Viognier – here we have a grape first associated with the Condrieu region in the Rhone, where one property, Chateau Grillet, has had its own distinct growing designation (Appellation d’Origine Controllée) since 1936. The average price of Chateau Grillet 2015 is over $450. That is far too steep for most of us, but it can make us eager to experience Viognier.

On LTO is South Australia’s Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2018, $2 off at $13.05. There is terrific depth of flavour here along with a creamy texture. Stone fruits such as apricot and peach share the spotlight with suggestions of spice and even honey. It is something special. The latest Wine Spectator considers it a ‘Best Value’ – in a list of 32 wines, it was ranked 25th, with only two whites scoring higher; it was over $20 cheaper than the white ranked above it -90.

For comparison, on Aug. 3 pick up a bottle of the Tabalí Pedregoso Gran Reserva Viognier 2018, $13.95, from Chile’s Limari Valley. The Chilean Wine guide Descorchados scored it a 90, saying there is “nerve and tension” linked to the acidity, leading to “a delicious aftertaste of apricots and spices.”

Chardonnay to Chardonnay – Two regular-list LTOs are Chile’s Cono Sur Organic Chardonnay, $2 off at $12 and Washington State’s Columbia Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay $3 off for $14.95. (The latter is missing from the shelves in many places currently – the Distribution Demon strikes again. We hope it shows up soon.)

The Cono Sur is described as being a cool climate wine, with 95 per cent spending four months in stainless steel, and just 5 per cent in oak. The Cono Sur wines have a reputation for really delivering on the character of the grape. Though not complex, it still has a wonderfully creamy texture along with good apple/pear fruit and a tinge of vanilla from the oak before lemon/lime notes kick in on the finish.

The Columbia Crest example is a reversal of the Cono Sur in terms of wine-making, as about 80 per cent sees nine months in oak, with 20 per cent in stainless steel for the aromatics. While aging, the barrels are hand-stirred to maximize flavour and extraction. The winemaker’s notes say “this Chardonnay opens with intense aromas of apples and melons, joined by signature characters of crème brulee, caramelized sugar and butterscotch. Ripe orchard fruit flavors are joined by creamy, buttery notes and balanced by lively acidity, creating a rich yet fresh wine.”

The wines are both good, but stylistically distinct, so see if you have a preference.

Sauvignon Blanc to Sauvignon Blanc – Many of the popular Sauvignon Blancs, especially those from New Zealand, tend to retail in the $18 to $25 range. This month, there are several on LTO as well as a Vintages product upcoming, Domaine du Tariquet Sauvignon Blanc 2017, $13.95, from France. This one has an 88 from the Wine Enthusiast, which says it is “rich, intense with spice and honey as well as the more classic Sauvignon Blanc herbal character.”

Rymill The Yearling Sauvignon Blanc 2018, $2.50 off at $11.45, is from Coonawarra in Australia. The lively, sharp and tangy Sauvignon Blanc traits jump out of the glass, with emphatic grassy and musk notes on the palate and lime at the end. It is not shy, and it is not “sophisticated,” but it is all you could hope for and more.

If you want to expand the comparison, California’s Gnarly Head Sauvignon Blanc is $2 off at $13.95, and New Zealand’s Riverlore is reduced by $2.50 to $14.25. The Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc, which Vintages describes as the “Benchmark”, is now $3 off for $16.95. It would be a really good starting point for comparing the less expensive examples, so that you could decide how much you truly need to spend to get the Sauvignon Blanc you want.

Rosé to Rosé – The shelves are overflowing with good rosés from every region of the world. Now is a great time for all kinds of comparisons, but you might want to start with something unexpected. Coming on Aug. 3 is the Ricasoli Albia Rosé 2018, $16.95, from Tuscany. This is a blend of Sangiovese and Merlot. The Merlot was vinified in the Rosé style, while the Sangiovese was vinified as if it were a white wine; then the two were blended. The result is a very pale pink and light bodied effort with good crispness and delicate peach/ cherry notes.

The Fantini Cerasuolo d’Abruzzi Rosé 2018, is just $10.95, regular price, but is it good! The suggested retail price in the States is $13, and the Wine Enthusiast said this: “Bright aromas of candied watermelon and pink grapefruit grace the nose of this neon-pink rosato from the Farnese group. It's textural and soft on the entry of the palate, yet a veil of tannins offers a solid frame to flavors of cherry, melon and citrus. Cleansing acidity rises up on the finish, which creates a refreshing overall experience.” -89.

Among the several very good Rosés featured on Aug. 3, there is the Domaine Maby La Forcadière Tavel Rosé 2018, $19.95. This is one of my favourites from the heart of France’s Rosé country, Tavel. A deep pink with orange highlights, it has plenty of red fruit and great depth. It pushes the price point up slightly, but it is a great standard by which to judge other rosés.

Cab to Cab – California Cabernet Sauvignon, to be specific. Three Thieves Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, is $2 off at $13.95. The “three thieves” in question include Joel Gott and Charles Bieler, both of whom are well known for wines bearing their names. (The Bieler Born To Run Cabernet Sauvignon released on July 20 is $21.95)

The “thief” reference acknowledges their reputation for finding excellent fruit throughout California and ‘stealing away’ with it.

Expect ample fruit wrapped in soft tannins in a medium-bodied wine of medium length with roasted plum and sweet cherry flavours at play. Hard to beat for the price.

Compare this with the Bread & Butter Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 from Lodi in California, now $3 off at $15.95. It is sneaky smooth on entry with lush fruit – like a maraschino cherry slathered in dark chocolate! But any concern with its being overly sweet is soon dusted off with resolved tannins and an attractive, earthy mocha element coming into play.

Both reds have 8 or 9 grams of sugar per litre, and so are fairly dry, though the ample fruit keeps them lush.

On the Aug. 3 release, the Ironstone Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, $17.95, is also from Lodi which is fundamentally straight inland and just south of the Napa region.

It sounds like it is quite similar to the Bread & Butter, as Natalie MacLean describes it as “full-bodied and supple… juicy with dark berry fruit, ripe black currant, vanilla and dark chocolate flavours wrapped up in campfire smoke from generous oak aging.”

If you want to venture away from California – far away – then look to the Tabalí Pedregoso Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, $15.95, from Chile’s Maipo Valley which is on the Aug. 3 release. Descorchados scored it 93, calling it a “wine of great character, for keeps”. It has a “touch of blueberries, matured but not too much” and strongly felt “earthy tones.” This should be quite distinctive from its California cousins.

As well, the excellent Cathedral Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon, a Vintages Essential from South Africa, is $2.50 off at $14.45. Benefitting from judicious treatment in mostly French oak for 18 months, the wine exhibits aromas of cedar and plum, and also conveys impressions of red berry fruit as well as herbs. The flavours are juicy, with some tannin and bright acidity come through at the end.

Carmenère to Carmenère – When it comes to Carmenère, we are basically talking about Chile, as the grape virtually disappeared in Europe back in the 19th century with the Phylloxera Louse infestation. Concha Y Toro Winemaker’s Lot 148 Carmenère, $3 of at $15.95 is a Vintages Essential. Good, juicy blueberry/blackberry fruit is accompanied by earthy and smoky notes in a beautifully textured wine with a peppery note on the finish.

On Aug. 3, the Espino Reserva Especial Carmenère 2017, $15.95, is being released. Vintages calls it “savoury and ripe, with impressive floral, black cherry, plum spice and smoke notes and a vanilla-accented finish.  It’s structured and long with notable focus and precision.”

Zin to Zin – Well, Zinfandel to Zinfandel, including its European manifestation, Primitivo.

California’s Carnivor Zinfandel, $2 off at $15.90, is huge on flavour, with suggestions of cherry and vanilla, clove, chocolate and coffee. The dark fruits are ripe and jammy, but the wine is smooth and lush even conveying a hint of butterscotch.

The Wanted Zin Old Vines Zinfandel, $2 off at $12.95, is an old vines Primitivo from Puglia in Italy. Fifty percent is treated in American oak in a very intentional attempt to re-create the California style. It concentrates stewed plum and blueberry flavours and carries a mocha note much like the Carnivor. The over-all impact is smooth with polished tannins at the end.

On the Aug. 3 release you will find the Amastuola Primitivo 2015, $15.95, also from Puglia. The Wine Enthusiast explains that “this organic Primitivo offers a spice-driven nose of sweet tobacco leaf and peppercorn, with enticing berry scents at the core. It's light and zesty in feel, with loads of tart berry flavors on the palate and a tangy mineral vein.” - 87. The sense is that this is a more traditional style of Primitivo, one that really lends itself to a good comparison with modestly priced wines in the American style.

Many more “head-to-head” taste-offs can be created with the LTOs, including Rioja, Shiraz, and Cabernet Franc, as well as Pinot Grigios, Rieslings, and Proseccos. Check them out, and see for yourself which wines really deliver.

Aeration Revisited – Last article, I wrote about the importance of aeration in letting a wine really express itself. Doing that with the Toro Bravo red illustrated that point beautifully, in that after a few hours with a chance to breathe, the tannins had truly softened up, and the flavours blossomed. Once it opened, the Toro Bravo ($7.95) could hold its own against many wines two to three times more expensive.

Aug. 3 Vintages Release

In addition to the wines included above, there are several additional good-value options hitting the shelves next weekend.

White

Vitesse Grillo 2017, $14.95, is an organic white from Sicily. The Grillo grape is used in the fortified wine of Sicily, Marsala, but is getting more attention today as it is vinified as a dry white wine. It has a floral nose, with apple or pear and grapefruit/lime flavours on the palate. It is balanced, with the flavours persisting nicely.

Porcupine Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2018, $15.95, is another wine that could be considered in a comparison tasting, with this one coming from South Africa. Vintages describes it as “flinty and floral with suggestions of citrus, green bell pepper and freshly cut grass.”

Cederberg Chenin Blanc 2018, $18.95. Chenin Blanc is a South African specialty, often going by the name “Steen.” This is a juicy wine with pear/melon notes and a creamy texture, thanks to four months of extended contact on the lees.

A perfect comparison would be with the Chateau de Montguéret 2017, $17.95, from the original heart of Chenin country, France’s Loire. Vintages suggests that “a brilliant ribbon of acidity” is wrapped around “a core of juicy peach and pear, freshly squeezed lime and stony mineral.”

Rosé

Chateau Val-Joanis Tradition Rosé 2018, $16.95, is a popular Rhone visitor to the LCBO shelves, and the wine is vibrant and offers bright red berry notes along with a suggestion of red liquorice. It has fine structure and depth.

Tessellae Rosé 2018, $16.95, is produced in France’s Roussillon region by the Domaine Lafage, noted for bringing us wines of great quality at a good price. Crisp and dry, it has been said to carry peach/apricot impressions, as well as strawberry. Where some may refer to its minerality, one site, Vinomofo, suggests oyster shells, and calls the wine, “more-ish.”

Red

Argento Reserva Cabernet Franc 2015, $14.95, from Argentina brings us a grape more normally associated with the Loire or our own Niagara region. James Suckling tells us that it isn’t typically Cab Franc in style, but that it is ripe and “fullish-bodied” with moderately dry tannins. – 90.

Courtois La Source Côtes Du Rhone 2017, $14.95, is an 80/20 Grenache/Syrah blend. Calling it beautiful and a steal, winecurrent.com tells us “it glides on the palate with softness, showcasing crunchy black cherry, black plum and tangy raspberry flavours to the fore,” all leading to a “medium-long lively fruity/savoury finish.” – 92.

Le Cirque Grenache Noir/Carignan/Syrah 2015, $16.95, from the Roussillon has the robertparker.com approval which describes it as delicious and having a “forward, medium-bodied, complex style as well as terrific notes of spices, leather, garrigue and ripe plums. – 90.

Sein 2011, $16.95, is a Spanish red with a lot going for it. First of all, there is the age, which suggests a wine that needed to mature, and has done so. A blend of Monastrell and Syrah, it also has Beppi Crosariol’s significant support. Beppi, writing in the Globe and Mail, is terrifically reliable. He calls it “a big mouthful for the money,” and tells us it has “discipline and depth” to its ripe “stewed fruit and cocoa character. - 90.

Enjoy!