Live and Learn

When we think we know a subject very well, we can at times find ourselves comfortably repeating what we believe to be facts, but which over time may have slipped a little.

The ground shifts and knowledge changes as subjects are studied more deeply, or science and experience reveal that things are not necessarily the way we had come to think they are.

Such is the case with Zinfandel, as the February 15 issue of Wine &Spirits revealed in an article entitled, “Zin Reincarnated: Can Young vines Make Great Zin?”

Zinfandel is the grape most closely considered the original California grape, planted by immigrants in the late 19th and early 20th centuries when they first arrived on the west coast from Europe in general and Italy in particular.

For the longest time, people really weren’t sure where Zinfandel came from, and it is only in recent years that we have learned that it, along with its close Italian relative, Primitivo, are the offspring of a relatively obscure grape from Croatia.

Up until now, the general consensus has been that the best Zinfandel wines are quite often sourced from vineyards planted even before prohibition, and still in production.

The general belief: the older the vines, the lower the production of fruit, but the more concentrated the flavours in those grapes.

While that belief isn’t exactly being turned on its head, growers and winemakers are starting to realize that, rather than the age of the vines being the great determinant, other factors in planting and cultivation can be harnessed so that relatively young vines can produce exceptional good, beautifully structured Zins.

One common factor in producing excellent zinfandel could be volcanic soil – one site above the town of Sonoma (which is at the southern end of the region) has a high degree of potassium which impacts on acidity – by picking before the grapes are too ripe, the wine maker is able to craft the kind of wine he’s after – one that emphasizes savoury rather than jammy fruit, with peppery notes and fresh bright flavours.

At the other, northern end of the region, the Hobo Wine Company exploits the rocky volcanic conditions and ocean influence to produce “a snappy, ebullient zinfandel lightened by floral and herbal aromas, a zinfandel that’s almost addictively drinkable.”, Luke Sykora writes.

Another characteristic of the old zinfandel vineyards is that they are not exclusively Zinfandel, but have other vines, such as petite sirah, mourvedre, syrah, and others interspersed in small amounts. 

Winemakers have realized that these vines contribute positively to the overall character and complexity of what we call “old vine” zinfandel, and so, in new plantings efforts are now being made to replicate this type of mix; they are finding that the wines produced by the younger vines share characteristics with the old vine product, though they may not have the same breadth.

Sykora explained that Joel Peterson of Ravenswood also makes the case for employing the natural, umbrella-shaped bush form for Zinfandel vines as opposed to training them along trellises, in order to provide greater protection of the fruit from the sun.

This isn’t universal.   In Napa, Jerry Seps of Storybook Mountain is meticulous in charting and analysing every aspect of growing his vines and making his wine, from rootstock, to exposure, to vine management and everything else, and finds that with the differences in Napa in exposure and micro-climate, trellising is a better alternative.

Seps is quoted as saying that all these decisions “make small differences, but we live on small differences.”

Growing Zinfandel in Napa certainly bucks the trend in the valley where Cabernet Sauvignon is king, with the Cab selling for about $5,500 a ton, and Zinfandel getting over $3,000 less.

But, Napa or Sonoma, well made Zinfandels provide rewarding drinking, and while they aren’t always inexpensive, they usually provide a much more attractive quality to price ratio than their Cabernet Sauvignon counterparts.

Of the half dozen new Cab releases scoring above 90, only two were under $100, with the cheapest $55; of the 22 Zinfandels of the same rank, only 3 were in the $40 range, with 9 of them $30 or less and one was just $14.

So, Old Vine or not, I’m learning that what matters most is pedigree –who is making the wine, and what kind of attention are they devoting to the process; in the end, quality will tell.

Whether it’s Vintages or the regular list, our local LCBO stores carry about 20 different Zinfandels, excluding the so-called sweeter white or blush zinfandels that remain popular even today.

One of the best, at $31.95, is the Seghesio 2012 Zinfandel from Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley with a Wine Spectator 90 - great structure balances rich dark fruit and more savoury anise and herbal flavours.

The McManis Family Vineyards 2012 Zinfandel, $18.95, with a generic “California” designation, comes to us from a producer known for providing general good value, whatever the particular wine, and here we will find some sweet raspberry fruit, soft tannins, and smoke on the finish.

Also $18.95, XY Zinfandel 2012, is a hearty example with a sweet edge and smoky notes, begging to be paired with your favourite hamburger.

Two relatively inexpensive Zins on the regular list come to us from Don Sebastiani and Sons whose family were pioneers in wine-making in the town of Sonoma.

Smoking Loon Old Vine Zinfandel, $14.95, and Pepperwood Grove, $13.95, are good, generic examples of the grape, and provide a decent introduction, with brambly fruit, some initial sweetness and soft tannins on the finish – the former may come across as drier, with the latter displaying some vanilla notes as well.

Ravenswood Vintner’s Blend Old Vine Zinfandel, $17.95, could be considered a benchmark as a Vintages essential and available at all our stores – while it has good brambly fruit, it doesn’t over-do it to the point of being jammy, but instead is more subtle with velvety tannin and a touch of pepper at the end.

Switching topics, amongst the wines still available in the Vintages section of the Great Northern Road store, there are a few I would suggest trying.

Santa Carolina Gran Reserva Petit Verdot 2011, $15.95, from Chile gives us a chance to experience a grape normally found in Bordeaux blends – here flavour interplays with acidity and the emphasis is on balance, and it is reaching its peak.

Argentina’s La Posta has four wines in our store, including a “Tinto Red Blend”, two single vineyard Malbecs (Paulucci and Pizzella) and the single “Armando” vineyard Bonarda.

Ranging in price from $12.95 to $16.95, the wines offer a chance to make some interesting comparisons, from blend to varietal to “same grape, same producer, separate vineyards.”

Malbec has become the flagship grape for Argentina, but the Bonarda, heretofore just a blending grape, is starting to get particular notice on its own: treat yourself to a La Posta Tasting, and see what differences are revealed – I think you will be pleased, all in all.

For the March 7 Vintages Release, there’s a definite Italian tendency in the wines we will be receiving.

Among the several Chiantis, Castellani Riserva 2010 is a very good buy at $14.95, earning a bronze at the International Wine Challenge - it has some savoury and earthy notes with the classic violet and tar on the nose, and should provide smooth drinking.

Ripasso fans should seek out the Bertani Ripasso Valpoicella 2011, $17, with an impressive 17 out of 20 score from Britain’s JancisRobinson.com – Vintages suggesst it will be “elegant and fresh, with flavours of plum, cardamom, and vanilla”.

A couple of reds from the Maremma coastal region of Tuscany, Sassoregale Sangiovese 2012, $15.95, and Le Sughere di Frassinello 2011, $24.95, should provide an interesting contrast: the former is quite hearty in style with great Sangiovese character – earthy, robust, dark cherry and tea, says Vintages, while the latter is quite highly rated, and described by erobertparker.com as having beauty and density, “a rich wall of blackberry and spice” that is “backed by bitter chocolate and tobacco.”

Oh, those Italians!  Enjoy.