I have just turned to a new page – though a very old one – in the realm of distilled spirits, one on which is written the name of a drink that has been crafted and enjoyed for hundreds of years in the Balkans, Lozovo Rakija.
Rakija, it seems, is produced universally in the region, quite commonly as a home –made distillation, and is an intrinsic part of the culture.
Recently I was provided the opportunity to give it a try, with four bottles, two from Serbia, two from Macedonia, and this is how I went about it.
Most of us are familiar with brandy and cognac, distilled grape spirits with which the pride of place is usually conceded to the Cognac region of France.
I looked online, and when it comes to tasting Cognac it was suggested that you sniff it first - one site going so far as dictating that you sniff three times from various distances to get the floral, then fruit, then spicy notes ( the last with your nose practically in the snifter.)
From there, you go to the tiniest of sips, tasting the brandy more and more to get the ultimate experience.
I tried this approach with three Serbian brandies from the house of Rubin, but first I tasted a true cognac, the Hennessy VS, which retails for about $60 – all in all an”entry-level” cognac – a light amber colour , a slightly fruity/floral nose, and fairly smooth entry, with the “burn” and aromatics expanding on the slightly sweet after-taste.
All the spirits in this review are available for BozvenImports.ca – 416-820-5563
The Rubinov Vinjak VS, $37.50, is a shade deeper than the Hennessy, with some spice on the nose, and is very smooth on entry – it has a silky, glycerin feel to it, and a clean, warm finish – this is a pleasant, fairly sophisticated spirit.
The Rubin Vinjac VS. $36.95, seems a bit hotter on the nose and has more of a bite to it, all in all; I find it more rustic that the former – a matter of style and preference, perhaps.
The Rock 98, $31.95, is fascinating, in that it is lighter-toned, a muted gold, and incredibly smooth on the palate for a brandy, though the aftertaste delivers warmly and broadly – I can see this as a very good starting point for brandy, one that should appeal in name and experience to a younger crowd.
While I am no expert when it comes to brandies and cognacs, I believe that these Serbian examples stand up well to comparably priced competitors.
Though I say I am no expert with brandies and such, I still have sipped a few from time to time, and have some sense of how to enjoy them in a nice snifter.
It’s a different story with Rakija, especially as produced on the home front, as I learned when I began to read about it. One writer recommended that you toss it to the back of the throat, and that the best don’t burn in the throat, but open up warmly in the chest.
With the home variety, it was said that the first and last parts of the distillation are discarded rather than bottled – It ends up there could be some pretty nasty stuff in those portions of the batch – but they don’t throw it away, as it can be used for such things as window cleaning!
Okay: so a different approach.
With the Rakija I am tasting, there is nothing to fear, and much to enjoy, as the production methods are modern and precise,
Having read about both brandy and traditional tasting approaches, I decided on a combination, both a sip and a toss!
Of the four, three are quite pale, more like a grappa in appearance, though they are the distillation of the fruit itself, unlike grappa which is usually made from the pomace, the material left in the vat after the wine is racked off the tank.
In terms of alcohol, I have read that some could go as high as 60 percent and more (120 proof) but the ones I’m dealing with range from 40 to 45 percent alcohol by volume.
Starting with the Serbs, I have two examples, Alexandrovic Loza, 42% - $$40.95, and Rubin Loza, 45% - $37.95; then there are two from Macedonia, the Tikveš Prirodna Lozova Rakija, 40%, - $29.95 and the Skovin Markov Manastir, Lozova Rakija, 45% - $29.55.
On sipping, the Alexandrovic is smooth and silky, and I noticed a slight tingle on my lips afterwards. It goes down very smoothly, and there’s a gentle warmth on the follow-through.
I think with Rakija, we are not so much into flavours, as impact; tossing it back, the Alexandrovic certainly brought a glow – a pleasant expansion throughout that could make you understand the temptation to repeat the experience.
The Rubin example, like the Alexandrovic, is as clear as water, and the first sip is very clean, and, while not quite as “lush” as the first, is not at all harsh – with a toss back, the impact is good, and satisfying. There is nothing to the experience that says “Enough is enough!”
Upon reflection, I can understand Rakija as a digestive, just as people use good brandies.
While all of these Rakijas have likely been aged in wood for at least four years, it is only the Tivkeš that has a brandy’s colour, though perhaps slightly paler than we customarily expect.
It also has a bit more of that spicy brandy nose; it has a very attractive entry, slipping in gently, with a nice glow on the after-taste – tossed back, some caramel notes do emerge, and ultimately the effect is more reminiscent of a traditional brandy.
Skovin’s Markov Manastir is produced in the classic alembic fashion of brandies, in 500-litre vessels. It has a distinctive, pale golden hue, and more brandy character to the taste than the other examples. It, too, leaves your lips tingling just a little, which I have to think is an indication of the higher alcohol content.
In character, this spirit can easily hold its place with other brandies in a comparable price range, and offers a good entry into a category most of us have never known: it has a satisfying texture, the kind of flavours we traditionally associate with brandy - some spice, some caramel- and a spreading, chest- warming glow that can make us feel that the world still has some hope.
If Spirits are part of you repertoire, you really should explore these old world creations.
At The LCBO
On the shelves –
While I may generally highlight red wines, there are some very good whites in the vintages section of the Great Northern Road store.
Castello Di Neive Montebertotto Arneis 2012, $18.95 – wines made from the Arneis grape, a Piedmont original varietal, are current favourites of mine, in that they tend to be both rich in fruit flavour, but dry, and this example offers some nectarine and citrus with spicy notes on the finish – a Wine Spectator 90.
Chile’s Catena Chardonnay 2012, $19.95, is blended from three different vineyards, each contributing to the final effect – one gives tropical fruit notes, another peach and apricot, and the third with the highest elevation floral notes and minerality – and it all ends with a toasty oak finish.
Darting Durkheimer Nonnengarten Gewurztraminer Kabinett 2012, $18.95 (which means it is produced by Darting in the Nonnengarten vineyard in the town of Durkheim from the Gewurztraminer grape and is of good –Kabinett- quality) is a “rich” and “exuberant” wine that earned an 89 from Wine Align’s Sara D’Amato who wrote, “some notable minerality on this sweet, viscous wine boosts the acidity and adds a touch of verve.”
Leira Albarino 2013, $17.95, from the north of Spain is guaranteed to be fresh and crisp with some new-mown hay and citrus notes, making it the perfect accompaniment for seafood.
November 8 Release
The 2012 vintage of Cathedral Cellars Chardonnay was well-received for being a great value for a full-bodied and lush Chardonnay, and the 2013, $15.95, promises to deliver in the same fashion – a big wine for the money.
Pisano Cisplatino Pequeña Reserva Tannat/Merlot 2011, $13.95, hails from Uruguay and features the Tannat grape which makes it less common than most of the wines we see - Vintages suggests that this will be earthy and smoky with lush chocolate and fruit notes followed by a tangy finish – sounds like barbecue time to me.
Argentina’s Zolo Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, 17.95, has a ”loaded palate with tons of cherry, plum and blackberry flavour” and a “controlled finish” with butter and dry spices, says the Wine Enthusiast – 89.
There’s lots more on the way, but that should be a good start!
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