Every harvest, wineries all over the world put out calls for people to assist in the heavy load of work that comes with bringing in the grapes and processing them into wine.
Aside from actually picking the grapes, there is also the sorting, loading them into fermenters, working with them during fermentation, and transferring the new wine to tank and barrel.
Along with all that there is constant clean-up – for example, in Sonoma, California, no sooner is Pinot Noir fermented, the presses and fermenting vats need to be emptied and cleaned In preparation for Chardonnay, and, after the Chardonnay is dealt with, there is Syrah.
Fundamentally, there are two months of non-stop frenetic work.
The people doing this work are often interns, frequently graduates from oenology programs now seeking experience and ultimately a career in the world of wine.
At Marimar Torres Estate, I met Sergi Canals, a young Spaniard whose family makes sparkling wine (Cava) at Castel Sant Antoni in the Penedes region, and then I met up with a Rebecca Ruggeri, a young woman currently interning at Gary Farrell in Sonoma, where she was busy racking Chardonnay when I arrived, prior to preparing the tanks for the last grape of the season, Syrah.
Rebecca, a petite but sturdy, blue-eyed, chestnut-haired young woman from Toronto, is the daughter of Carla Bruni Ruggeri, formerly of Sault Ste. Marie – Carla’s sisters and brother still reside here, and the family includes not only Brunis, but Cugliettas and Palarchios as well.
I say “petite but sturdy” with respect, because the work is physically demanding, from long hours of sorting grapes, to punching down the heavy cap of skins that floats to the top of fermenters, to digging tons of left-over residue (pomace) out of the tanks after the wine has been drawn off, to moving barrels filled with wine into storage – it is no work for wimps.
Rebecca initially studied Criminology, but after touring New Zealand, she decided she wanted to work with wine and took the Cool Climate Oenology program at Niagara College in St. Catharines, Ontario.
After graduation, she first worked with Pondview Cellars in Niagara, and then set out to learn as much as she could by interning at harvest time in wineries all over the world.
Before Gary Farrell, Rebecca worked at Piper Brook in Tasmania, and, when the term finishes in November in Sonoma, she will head back to Niagara to participate in the Ice Wine harvest – and when that wraps up, it will be time to head back to the Antipodes for the harvest there, where Rebecca is hoping to expand her experience with work and travel in Western Australia.
Now, that’s commitment.
As mentioned, when I met her, Rebecca was racking the chardonnay, transferring the wine from fermenting tanks to settling tanks for a day or two, and then to barrel by means of a big hose – she was dressed in jeans with big rubber boots, not very chic attire, but essential.
It can often be wet work, and you want your feet dry: other “cellar rats” have acknowledged that wearing something like tennis shoes is just begging for a virulent case of athlete’s foot.
Rebecca indicated that this is her first experience working in a warmer climate, and it involves different grapes; one other difference she noted is the greater care in sorting that the grapes are put through at Gary Farrell.
As a result, the quality of the fruit is very high, and there are fewer problems working with the wine subsequently.
The grapes are spread out and moved along a sorting table where any twigs or leaves or damaged fruit will be removed, and, while it might not seem that onerous, it can be demanding work; one intern was quoted as saying that “your hands rattle for six hours afterward.”
Rebecca was also doing punch-downs twice a day on the tanks, using a giant “potato masher” to press down and break up the cap of skins and seeds – apparently carpal tunnel syndrome is not an uncommon occurrence from work of this kind.
Once the wine is in barrels, Rebecca will be busy with malo-lactic fermentation, (which changes the crisp apple-like acid to a creamier “milk-like” acidity) monitoring and topping up barrels, and checking sulphur dioxide levels.
The tasks are physically demanding, and by the time harvest is complete, a cellar rat could lose 10 to 15 pounds and more – it is a great regimen if you love the work!
I asked Rebecca which wines she enjoyed most, and she said she really likes the new world style of Pinot Noir that was both fruit-forward and earthy at once; she also loves really crisp Riesling that is fresh and shows lots of acidity and minerality.
One day she hopes to work in Germany, too, as she tries to get as much experience as she can – as she said, the goal is to learn enough to set yourself apart, yet still be a solid team member.
Rebecca said, “I try to learn something every day that I can take away.”
With her commitment, there is little question that Rebecca will earn a solid place in the world of wine.
Currently, Gary Farrell wines are not available at the LCBO, but like many Sonoma premium wines, they retail from the winery in the $50 range for Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs.
The care Rebecca mentioned is reflected in the quality.
The 2012 Bacigalupi Vineyard Chardonnay 2012, $45, received a 92 from the International Wine Review – I found it aromatic with toast noticeable on the nose and a dry but full mouth-feel – it was nutty with more orchard-like than tropical fruit.
The 2012 Russian River Selection Pinot Noir, $45, is one wine which does get national distribution – it is a lighter–textured wine with cinnamon and clove on the nose, and the suggestion of bright cherry/berry and dry, unsweetened cranberry on the palate, with soft and pleasant tannins.
At the LCBO
Currently, there are many good wines on the LCBO shelves – both the Station Mall and Great Northern Road stores have the Catena Malbec 2012, $18.45 until November 9.
The Wine Spectator liked its intensity and deep flavours which are savoury and include ginger and chocolate, and the winemaker suggests it has good acidity and lingering minerality.
Both stores also have the Catena Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, $19.95, a wine that often earns scores of 90 and more for its structured elegance, length, and rich layers of dark fruit.
Also at both locations is the Lan Crianza Rioja, only $14.95 until November 9, a winner in an old-world style with juicy sour cherry fruit, herbal notes and enough tannin for you to invite it out to dinner.
From Oregon, Great Northern Road has a couple of cases of A to Z Wineworks Pinot Noir 2012 , $24.95 – which, given that it retails at the winery for $19, is a fair price for a wine that has appeared twice on the Wine Spectator’s top 100. (We won’t dwell on the fact that Costco in Portland sells it for $12.95…)
As Vintages indicates, the earth and forest notes are prominent in a wine the makers say walks “a tightrope between richness and elegance.”
Prices are climbing for a good Chianti, and so $19.95 is quite reasonable for San Felice Chianti Classico 2010, with an erobertparker.com 92 and a top 100 “best buy” from the Wine Enthusiast magazine for its nose of violet and dried cherry, pepper and mint flavours, and elegant tannins.
There are two $14.95 Negramaro offerings from Puglia, the Schola Sarmenti Roccamora Nardo’ 2006 – a great price for a wine of this age, one with depth of flavour and perfectly ready to drink – and the well-received San Marzano Falò 2012 with good dark fruit and some chocolate/coffee notes – a chance to see for yourself what a difference 6 years aging might make.
With the kind of weather we have been having, a cheese Fondue might be the perfect dish, and if so, why not try it with a Swiss white crafted for the occasion, the Cave de Jolimont Edelweiss Fondue 2012, $14.95, which Vintages recommends for its “site-specific minerality…crisp delicate fruit and floral tones.”
Now. Who won the lottery?
For some reason, the Sault, for the October 26 release, has 60 bottles of the Napa Valley Far Niente Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 as well as 48 bottles of that winery’s 2012 Chardonnay – both should be pretty good, but the Chardonnay is $77.95 a bottle and the Cab is $146.95.
This seems like a lot of bottles of expensive wine to me, but that’s okay –just invite me over for a drink, please.
At a far less rarified price for an excellently produced white there’s Ontario’s Tawse Sketches of Niagara Riesling 2013 for $17.95 – I anticipate true purity of stone-fruit flavour that is perfectly balanced with satisfying acidity.
At $16.95, the Flat Rock Cellars Unplugged (i.e. un-oaked) Chardonnay 2013 offers yummy tropical notes and good acidity
The Rodney Strong Chalk Hill Chardonnay 2012, $24.95 garnered a 91 from Wines and Spirits Magazine and while it is oaky at first, the fruit carries through on a creamy rich wine, according to the review.
From Chile’s Maipu Valley hails the Morandé Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, $17, a top-notch wine described by winespectator.com as “ripe [and] muscular, with a core of dark plum, fig, and black olive flavors.” Why not pick up a bottle and compare it to the Far Niente at eight times the price?
The Hallowe’en Tasting at the Art Gallery of Algoma starts at 8 o’clock on the 31, which gives you enough time to shepherd your munchkins around the neighbourhood before treating yourself to an evening of Spirits of a different kind along with appetizers prepared by Fransizi’s.
Costumes are optional, but enjoyment will be mandatory as we feature drinks perfect for the occasion.
Tickets are $50 for non-members and $45 for members, and you can call the Gallery at 705-949-9067 to reserve – there’s nothing better than having a good time while supporting a worthy cause simultaneously – we hope to see you there!
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